2012 San Guisto a Rentennano Chianti Classico

2012 San Guisto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 14% ABV $29

Open and demonstrative, the nose shows spiced dried red cherry, dried violets, a subtle savory undercurrent, mineral Earth, and a little cocoa powder. The palate is layered with aromatic dried cherry
that is fresh and subtly sweet, pretty Asian spice, anise, a solid dark cherry core, charred rare
beef on the mid-palate, a nice tart bite, and a big dusty grip. The moderately long finish is quite firm,
but leaves the palate clean at the end. Forthright and satisfying. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. 91 Pts

San Guisto also makes Percarlo, an important 100% Sangiovses IGT wine. The estate is located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico zone, with vineyards at an average elevation of 270 meters. They are certified organic.

1994 Soldera Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino

A classic example of great wine making.

It is said that the best wine makers still make good wine in difficult vintages, they just make less of it. The 1994 Soldera is a classic example of that statement. I have tasted this wine at least eight times, and it has consistently shown as a truly great example of the qualities Brunello Di Montalcino can attain. 1994 was a less than stellar vintage, with a few challenges, but you can't tell that from this wine.

1994 Soldera Case Basse Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 13% ABV $450

Tasted November 2014

Opened and poured, the '94 is still going strong. This bottle shows tart red cherry, cardamom, coffee, and a little orange rind on the nose.The palate has a plush texture that is typical of Soldera, with blended Asian spice, red cherry, penetrating acidity, a little brown sugar, and super-fine tannins.  It stands up well over the course of the meal, and develops notes of tobacco leaf, and charred Earth near the end of the bottle. Elegant and nuanced, but still powerful at is core. 94 Pts

Tasted May 2009

Popped and poured. More floral / perfume than previous bottles. Still complex but the fruit is, unfortunately, fading. Even as this star burns out, it produces new colors. Or maybe it just this bottle. We'll see.

Tasted June 2008

Garnet red with a hint of brown. Sour cherries at first, quickly blew off to a nice tartness, which also mellowed after twenty minutes. Incense, warm spices, mushroom, young cherries. Almost fully integrated tannins. This, once again, plays like a middle aged burgundy. Great complexity of nose and palate. Wonderful development in the glass such that the last sip is a regret. Seemed like it was fading, but then came back strong over the course of 2 hours. Opened 1 hour beforehand and sampled. Not decanted.

Tasted November 2007

Pretty, light ruby red with lovely clarity. All characteristics are elegant and subtle. Nose of bright cherry, fine shale and roses and a hint of charcoal grill. On the palette clean medium body with cherry, bramble, leather, anise, carmel and asian spice. Seamless. Great balance of sweet acid, fruit and fine tannins. Incredibly long finish. Once again, a fine Burgundy like Brunello.

One unfortunate element of the Soldera story is the financial impact of the 2012 vandalism attack the resulted in the loss of nearly all wine in barrel from recent vintages. Market prices have soared since that event. This particular bottle could be found for under $150 before the attack; today I see it priced between $425 and $625, making it virtually unattainable for many lovers of Brunello.  Given the very limited quantities of the 2007 thru 2012 vintages that remained after the barrels were drained, the prices won't be going down any time soon. Still, if you can, you should taste Soldera to experience the glory that Sangiovese can achieve at the hand of Gianfranco Soldera.

1993 Biondi Santi Riserva

1993 Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 13% ABV $400?

From the producer that "invented" Brunello Di Montalcino, this is typical of the Biondi Santi style, built firstly for aging, and it does so at a glacial pace. Over 15 years after its release, it still takes focused attention, and time in the glass, to recognize the greatness here, but be assured it is great.Cologne, spice, and incense lightly coat the finessed nose that opened very slowly over time in the glass with mushroom, anise, and Earth showing later. The palate is dark and firm with black cherry skins, flint, charred Earth, and violets.The acidity and tannins are in harmony and balance perfectly with the fruit. Nothing is missing, and there's no indication of decline. Rather, it is clear that this wine is still opening, and developing in the bottle.

This is a style that has rare opportunity to be appreciated these days, as it is built to be consumed with many years of aging under its belt. That is something that few consumers are inclined to or able to do, especially since much of the wine loving population has been "raised" on wines designed to please immediately, and in a big, straight forward ways. If you want to enjoy Biondi Santi's Riserva Brunello's, be prepared to wait.