1993 Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 13% ABV $400?From the producer that "invented" Brunello Di Montalcino, this is typical of the Biondi Santi style, built firstly for aging, and it does so at a glacial pace. Over 15 years after its release, it still takes focused attention, and time in the glass, to recognize the greatness here, but be assured it is great.Cologne, spice, and incense lightly coat the finessed nose that opened very slowly over time in the glass with mushroom, anise, and Earth showing later. The palate is dark and firm with black cherry skins, flint, charred Earth, and violets.The acidity and tannins are in harmony and balance perfectly with the fruit. Nothing is missing, and there's no indication of decline. Rather, it is clear that this wine is still opening, and developing in the bottle.
This is a style that has rare opportunity to be appreciated these days, as it is built to be consumed with many years of aging under its belt. That is something that few consumers are inclined to or able to do, especially since much of the wine loving population has been "raised" on wines designed to please immediately, and in a big, straight forward ways. If you want to enjoy Biondi Santi's Riserva Brunello's, be prepared to wait.