tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32126359723875947222024-03-11T08:02:38.269-07:00Brunello Bob's World of Wine Featuring tasting notes and articles about solid wines from around the world, with a special focus on Brunello Di Montalcino and other great Italian wines.Written by Bob Fyke.Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.comBlogger72125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-68616347632326707742018-10-21T19:03:00.001-07:002018-10-21T19:12:33.471-07:00Baricci - Family Tradition on the Montosoli Hill<br />
With over 200 producers to choose from, lovers of Brunello are tasked to find the qualities that distinguish particular producers from the crowd. When I visited with the family team, at the tiny <a href="http://www.baricci.it/?lang=en">Baricci winery</a>, I saw just such qualities and was impressed by their integrity toward the wines they produce. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sangiovese Vines of Baricci, Ready for the Harvest</td></tr>
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I spoke with Pietro Buffi and his two sons, Federico and Francesco, and saw their strong desire to uphold a personal high standard, regardless of how other wineries may operate. They told me how 95 year old Nello Baricci, founded the winery and established that high standard. They also described how he still checked in, every day, on the various tasks of the business. Sadly, since my visit, Nello has passed away, after a long, distinguished role in the Brunello community. He was highly regarded, and a founding member of the Brunello Consorzio. He will certainly be missed.<br />
In addition to their high standards, the wines of Baricci benefit from a prestigious location, the Montosoli hill. All of their vineyards are located in this famous sub-zone, on the north side of Montalcino. Regarded as one of the best vineyard locations in the the DOCG, Montosoli is occupied by just a small handful of Brunello producers. Interestingly, most of those producers make only riserva or premium single vineyard wines from this location, which is a testament to the quality of the place. In contrast, Baricci only makes a riserva in the best vintages, and even makes a <em>Rosso</em> Di Montalcino from their Montosoli vines. <br />
Another practice that distinguishes Baricci from others is their meticulous, manual processes in the vineyard; everything is done by hand. For example, the leaves of each vine are trimmed to increase sun contact on cooler exposures, or to block sunlight on the hottest southern exposures. Theirs is truly a handcrafted product and that effort is apparent in the bottle.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Commemoration of the founders of the Consorzio</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">2007 Baricci Colombaio Brunello Di Montalcino $45, 14% ABV</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Here is a wine with strength and finesse, in the classic style. On the nose there is solid black cherry skins, with charred brambles, subtle incense, and a distinct beam of sweet spice. There's great balance on the palate, with dark fruits, good acidity, and medium grained tannins. The finish is quite long, with more fine spice, some tobacco, and more brambles. Still needs time to integrate, but beautiful now. Complete and complex. </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;">This </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">fine, traditional Brunello is </span>produced in the limited quantity of only 12,000 bottles.</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;">91 Pts.</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">2011 Baricci Colombaio Brunello Di Montalcino $45, 14% ABV</span></h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFVpQx60bifP1aXtlvm9V3P8YEXrVlS2IxXJyO10Kqh5m6NF8Ex3VNa4mwbioD_C_hmH_O5HhclJ4f42WdzUfmrLYzeonrFcwoAiiuBWq6p6w2NftCUzNPuNnFMkAFZb3OLQZJUmraXjQ/s1600/20160926_175712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFVpQx60bifP1aXtlvm9V3P8YEXrVlS2IxXJyO10Kqh5m6NF8Ex3VNa4mwbioD_C_hmH_O5HhclJ4f42WdzUfmrLYzeonrFcwoAiiuBWq6p6w2NftCUzNPuNnFMkAFZb3OLQZJUmraXjQ/s320/20160926_175712.jpg" width="180" /></a><span style="font-family: inherit;">The nose is marked by solid fruit with dark notes of ripe black and red cherry, with warm spice notes underscored by fragrant, charred incense. This is a wine with a firm, dark heart.The palate has spiced black cherry skins with fresh acidity and a firm grip. Leather and tobacco notes add further detail. Solid and satisfying with a long finish. 90 Pts</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">2014 Baricci Colombaio Montosoli, Rosso Di Montalcino $20, 13.5% ABV</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Overall finessed nose, with dark, charred Earth, grilled meats, and faint incense.The palate is elegant and aromatic with dried red cherry and sweet herbs. Lean and bright with plenty of acidity and fine tannins on the finish. I believe this is the only Rosso Di Montalcino produced from Montosoli. 89 Pts</span></div>
Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-15227998028980151762018-02-01T18:32:00.000-08:002018-02-01T18:32:11.985-08:001985 Barbi Brunello - Wonderful Tradition This wine was very impressive at a recent dinner with friends, showing very well beside other solid Tuscans. <a href="http://www.fattoriadeibarbi.it/en/">Fattoria dei Barbi</a> is a very traditional producer and their methods paid off well in the vintage, which was an outstanding one in Montalcino. The Barbi estate, located about 3 km southeast of Montalcino, has been producing wine for more than 200 years. While many producers have joined in the production of Brunello in the past 30 years, this particular wine has been made for over 100 and the experience shows.<br />
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1985 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 13% ABV (Recent Vintages around $45)</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGTZtHLfDz9AHBKz4zg0hzE7kK8Pxs_vtIGVXYux38Vet9DcZscvPw46HcLx0Vj3PwmDuNHYzX2dzOHPOhbdiA8dQYxTSyD4zWsgCGp_W-sJDTB6tFO14Qv0g1tkM5mF-j7X0eZW2kUQ/s1600/20171115_204621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGTZtHLfDz9AHBKz4zg0hzE7kK8Pxs_vtIGVXYux38Vet9DcZscvPw46HcLx0Vj3PwmDuNHYzX2dzOHPOhbdiA8dQYxTSyD4zWsgCGp_W-sJDTB6tFO14Qv0g1tkM5mF-j7X0eZW2kUQ/s400/20171115_204621.jpg" width="225" /></a>Decanted and poured within 30 minutes. The wonderful scent of fragrant, dried herbs wafts out from the glass immediately, followed by warm underbrush, and subtle smoke. Dried red cherry, perfumed wood and rose petals are also present in the complex and alluring nose. On the palate there is fresh acidity, pure flavors of dried red cherry, distinct coffee notes and a bit of forest floor. The tannins are fully integrated leaving a clean finish. Still fresh and pretty, with excellent balance, and the stamina to last for 2 hours in the decanter without fading. A thorough pleasure. 95 Pts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo2Rl0Xb1HubNmxAMug_-RUO7gEB0MOfcniZoM7ensRt4a_Gug3wBqQb4XIPjlpa2RWNvJuBvpk0FtSewczHO35UKeeSks13on81cj0RmuSJBy7EUqFw5hhz0cnIC9sGWujQFYh-vVKAI/s1600/20171115_204603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo2Rl0Xb1HubNmxAMug_-RUO7gEB0MOfcniZoM7ensRt4a_Gug3wBqQb4XIPjlpa2RWNvJuBvpk0FtSewczHO35UKeeSks13on81cj0RmuSJBy7EUqFw5hhz0cnIC9sGWujQFYh-vVKAI/s400/20171115_204603.jpg" width="225" /></a>Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-73180798981203552882017-07-23T05:10:00.000-07:002017-07-23T05:12:07.020-07:00Lorenzo & Isabelle Return!<br />
A while back I posted about <a href="http://brunellobob.blogspot.com/2013/07/il-palazzone-lorenzo-isabelle-igt-2005.html">a wonderful wine</a> produced, only once, by <a href="http://www.ilpalazzone.com/">Il Palazzone</a>, in 2005. That wine was a beautiful IGT blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. I enjoyed it on multiple occasions and found it enchanting every time. One key to its excellence was the character it developed with time in the bottle; it was eight years old at the time. I didn't expect to see it produced again, thinking it was a one-time homage to the parents of winery owner Dick Parsons; but I was wrong (happily). <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifSN7tRbhd3d7IJs058M9Vhg62qzx7L4MpaIY8f56BdsUFDlqmwkAWy4762lbF5fi1rkcfZEhu_LzrG0dK7ztMyeLgs-f96CTltendDhRho00tvGw2AimahOZHSmk1J88rJkwKL4l4gJ4/s1600/20170627_182013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifSN7tRbhd3d7IJs058M9Vhg62qzx7L4MpaIY8f56BdsUFDlqmwkAWy4762lbF5fi1rkcfZEhu_LzrG0dK7ztMyeLgs-f96CTltendDhRho00tvGw2AimahOZHSmk1J88rJkwKL4l4gJ4/s320/20170627_182013.jpg" width="180" /></a>A new vintage of the "Lorenzo & Isabelle" has been produced, for the 2013 vintage, and it shows every indication that it will mature into another beautiful expression. I checked in with Laura Gray, at Il Palazzone, to see if we can expect to see this wine going forward. She told me they are "hoping that this release will start a momentum" in that direction and "even justify planting or purchasing more vineyards with the international varieties" needed. Maybe, someday, we can enjoy a long vertical of "Lorenzo & Isabelle". <br />
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2013 Il Palazzone "Lorenzo & Isabelle" IGT. 13.5% ABV <strong>Cabernet Franc / Sangiovese / Petite Verdot from Montalcino</strong></h4>
Elegant and firm at the same time, with perfumed blackberry notes that are fresh and dark. Notes of incense and forest floor are also present on the nose. The palate has plenty of texture and well balanced components, although they need time to come together. Firm blackberry and incense carry through to the palate, with fragrant dried herbs showing as well. The acidity is dark and moderate with nice, fine-grained grip to underscore everything. Young, clean, detailed, and complete. This edition of Il Palazzone's special IGT shows all the components needed to emulate its predecessor. 90-92 Pts<br />
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<strong>2005 Il Palazzone "Lorenzo and Isabelle" IGT, </strong><b>13.5% ABV</b></div>
<b>Cabernet Franc / Sangiovese / Petite Verdot from Montalcino $60</b><br />
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Deep and dark at first on the nose, with plenty of fragrant earth and beautiful, aromatic blackberry and black cherry. There is a clean and fine grained character to the nose, with subtle strength beneath. The first thing to strike me on the palate was a wonderful freshness in the black fruit, with subtle perfume, flinty earth, and kirsch. The balance is excellent, especially in the way the components blend together seamlessly. The finish shows moderate grip, with fine grained, mouth coating tannins. There is plenty of vigor, and I believe there is a whole other set of qualities yet to come out, given sufficient time. This is a wine of stature, depth, freshness, and finesse. Quite complete and drinking very well at this time. 93 Pts. Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-18236121951687936292017-01-14T06:47:00.002-08:002017-01-14T06:47:17.448-08:00A Couple of 2009 Brunello ValuesThe 2009 vintage is said to be one for early drinking due to the weather challenges that prevented full development of structure and detail in many wines. Still, for near-term drinking, they can be quite enjoyable. These two are a great example of that 2009 characteristic, with their depth of fruit and forward nature. Both fall into the low end of the Brunello pricing spectrum, offering good relative value.<br />
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2009 La Rasina Brunello Di Montalcino 14.5% $40</h4>
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The nose is wonderfully Earthy, with good depth and a forward character. Dense black cherry flesh, with some ripeness, and dark spice are also prominent. The palate is full and voluptuous, with plenty of ripe black cherry, some pomegranate, Asian spice and subtle aromatics. Sweet tannins and gentle acidity are rolled into the palate profile. Limited complexity, but likely to please the crowd. 88 Pts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMjCLz8f0tFSSuxavVuLg_D51czLY1qUWhsjlztMdWqr8TlybpgjmEGNbRLqpMuhRUqISdI8GlKMjUCX5TWq8dqQMxCMpQDWuNpyRdyZpMkf9QmV91C4JqgMNIXLqdddzX9XZxKTonFbc/s1600/20161211_075805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMjCLz8f0tFSSuxavVuLg_D51czLY1qUWhsjlztMdWqr8TlybpgjmEGNbRLqpMuhRUqISdI8GlKMjUCX5TWq8dqQMxCMpQDWuNpyRdyZpMkf9QmV91C4JqgMNIXLqdddzX9XZxKTonFbc/s320/20161211_075805.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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2009 Mastrojanni Brunello Di Montalcino 15% ABV $45</h4>
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Dusty, spiced Earth, red cherry, and some forest floor make up the initial impression on the nose. Later there is mineral, sandalwood, and some dried rose petal adding nuance. The palate shows brite red cherry fruit with cardamom and hints of beef broth. Round tannins and easy acidity make up the structure with late notes of toasted Earth. An easy drinker with some complexity. 89 Pts.</div>
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<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-9492562625177272132016-10-02T06:35:00.000-07:002016-10-02T06:39:25.515-07:00Aia Vecchia - Quality and Value from Coastal Toscana<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: red;">Update 10/2/16: </span>2013 Lagone note added below. The quality of the 2013 provides further evidence of the value in the Lagone.</h4>
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As I've said before, one of the great joys of wine loving is discovering wines you can enjoy without having to spend a large sum. Aia Vecchia is a great source for exactly that sort of wine.</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDC6Xklce5k0FHCKpAOUI8fcOBLQN-ZEoWIRU9HlneriPu8u6mjvXKmpZt6eEbrw8nMrX1Aac5n5OQTkt-K-pHFBltEu7dx-eJiag3IIenIlNBb9P_Mb1S0PrGRoYnfrd4wQca5vZyPXM/s1600/20150303_212406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDC6Xklce5k0FHCKpAOUI8fcOBLQN-ZEoWIRU9HlneriPu8u6mjvXKmpZt6eEbrw8nMrX1Aac5n5OQTkt-K-pHFBltEu7dx-eJiag3IIenIlNBb9P_Mb1S0PrGRoYnfrd4wQca5vZyPXM/s1600/20150303_212406.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.aiavecchiabolgheri.it/en/" target="_blank">Aia Vecchia</a> <span style="font-weight: normal;">is a Tuscan producer with estates in Bolgheri and Maremma. I met up with Elia Pellegrini to taste their wines and discuss his family's business. The Pellegrini family has been in the wine industry for generations, but did not found Aia Vecchia until 1996, when they set out to make quality super Tuscan blends at a good price. In addition to their Bordeaux blend I.G.T.</span> wines, they produce two wines made from classic Italian varietals, a Vermentino, and a Morellino di Scansano (Sangiovese).<br />
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Elia, who recently took over global marketing for Aia Vecchia after his professional soccer career was ended by injury, told me that one of their most important goals is to make wine with great QPR (quality to price ratio). Having tasted there wines, on multiple occasions, I believe that are meeting that goal.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elia Pellegrini of Aia Vecchia</td></tr>
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A big factor in getting these to the American consumer, at such reasonable prices, is the role of <a href="http://www.dallaterra.com/" target="_blank">Dalla Terra</a> Direct, who's business model minimizes middle men and mark-ups. These wines make their way to the consumer without taking on too much price baggage, typically reducing mark-ups by 20%or more. Aia Vecchia is one of eighteen wineries currently imported by Dalla Terra.<br />
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Aia Vecchia's production is fairly modest, at 250k bottles per year, which allows this family run enterprise to focus on quality. Fifty percent of that production goes to the American market.<br />
Here are my notes on a few examples.<br />
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2011 Sor Ugo Bolgheri D.O.C. Superior 15% ABV, $35</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYcK-8x8CTSuxbWfCfJ2XXisGtKItLyPslssdWxImpOyCuZj_ERdNg-Dp7As70wdwDLdgvG6KeOZIvwGvsRNBv7RSOfiIqRSVvrZxa8sM_y3wRLvBOSzEQTtyRJxy2l5lC-634u4Nv8U/s1600/20150303_100745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIYcK-8x8CTSuxbWfCfJ2XXisGtKItLyPslssdWxImpOyCuZj_ERdNg-Dp7As70wdwDLdgvG6KeOZIvwGvsRNBv7RSOfiIqRSVvrZxa8sM_y3wRLvBOSzEQTtyRJxy2l5lC-634u4Nv8U/s1600/20150303_100745.jpg" width="180" /></a>Starts off with a beautiful nose of perfumed black cherry flesh and black currant with a rich core and nice complexity. Dark chocolate, tobacco, dried blackberry, and violets all intermingle and provide plenty of nuance. The palate is firm and dark with black cherry skins, and dried herbs with subtle underlying savory notes. The structure is solid, but finessed with nice juicey acidity and a fine coating of tannins. Nicely balanced and satisfying. 30 days maceration and 18 months in French barrique. 91Pts</div>
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50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 15% Cab Franc, 5% Petit Verdot</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6CW7loRodCstGrabG75f2vsLuv48gYbR6C9GRLa-QExyZTjr1k2ouK4W3dBmyCkIVPw9zdTes_kuOloDHeVxoALIlBfq8pdPw7cgaByMIqMGQXoeuV9osXy04o0w7p6a8QCgD4r-53w/s1600/20161001_175311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6CW7loRodCstGrabG75f2vsLuv48gYbR6C9GRLa-QExyZTjr1k2ouK4W3dBmyCkIVPw9zdTes_kuOloDHeVxoALIlBfq8pdPw7cgaByMIqMGQXoeuV9osXy04o0w7p6a8QCgD4r-53w/s320/20161001_175311.jpg" width="180" /></a>
2013 Aia Vecchia Lagone IGT 14.5% ABV, $15</h4>
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The nose is inviting, with ripe dark fruit, sweet, dusty red cherry aromas, plum, and some black cherry flesh. The fruit is underscored by a persistent cured tobacco scent that is lovely, along with a bit of dried spearmint. The palate is full bodied with black cherry skins, pie spice, savory dried herbs, and a dusty grip. A balanced structure completes the profile with dark supporting acidity, firm, but fine-grained, tannins, and a flinty finish that lingers nicely. 90 Pts.</div>
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2012 Aia Vecchia Lagone IGT 14.5% ABV, $15</h4>
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Named for a small stream the passes through the estate, the Lagone is a wonderful value that straddles the worlds of "modern" and "traditional" wine making. There is solid extraction and ripeness here, but it is balanced and well structured. The nose is rich, and serious in its first impression, with dark plum, blackberry, and pomegranate fruit, brambles, dried floral notes, mint leaves, and faint green pepper. The palate has a soft attack, and is medium-weight, with more dark plum, a little charred sandalwood and nice aromatic action on the back of the palate. The acidity is present in good measure and lends energy to the large profile, while the tannins are fine grained, but sufficiently pronounced to complete the impression of quality. I would not be surprised to see it age gracefully for 5 years, which is saying something for a bottle at this price point. 60% Merlot / 30% Cabernet Sauvignon / 10% Cab Franc</div>
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90 Pts</div>
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2010 Aia Vecchia Lagone IGT 14.5% ABV, $15</h4>
Big, pure, dark plum fruit wafts out of the glass on first pour, with dark berries, blueberries. Rich, ripe, and pretty with off-setting notes of aromatic underbrush, dark chocolate, sweet tobacco, and coffee. The palate has solid energy, with more dark plum and blackberry, juicy tannins, great dark acidity, dried herbs and underbrush, a dusty grip and plenty of backbone to offset the ripe fruit. Plenty of enjoyment for the low price. 90 Pts<br />
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2014 Aia Vecchia Vermentino Toscana 13% ABV, $12</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iQSLlnBj3wyAf0nvMFo7jDQFZKX5srBrI4eeN93irSE-k524MGCGCCFlhJrvppBcd0CI25oEkTon1rJhp4HbX9c5tIYa9VguUmjYmxjcUdMb6-3-2R1ID9uLvGAWYuGxzGGFz6TSAeM/s1600/20150303_100642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iQSLlnBj3wyAf0nvMFo7jDQFZKX5srBrI4eeN93irSE-k524MGCGCCFlhJrvppBcd0CI25oEkTon1rJhp4HbX9c5tIYa9VguUmjYmxjcUdMb6-3-2R1ID9uLvGAWYuGxzGGFz6TSAeM/s1600/20150303_100642.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
Fresh citrus and stone fruit comprise the nose, with some white peach, and lemon rind, underscored by subtle salinity. The palate is mouth-watering and clean, with a bit of weight, pleasant fruitiness, and nice balanced. The same fruit elements found on the nose, come through in the palate, with fresh acidity, subtle structure, and fine minerality underneath. A lovely white for everyday enjoyment, but still showing solid quality. 88 PtsBrunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-61415100315541260112016-07-22T09:27:00.000-07:002016-07-22T09:31:57.287-07:00What Makes a Year a Vintage?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hortense Bernard, of <a href="http://www.millesima-usa.com/?cm_mmc=Google+PPC-_-USA+-+Marque-_-USA+-+Marque-_-millesima|e" target="_blank">Millesima</a>, Shares Her Insight</h4>
Whether you're a wine maker, a retailer, or a consumer, everyone knows that the year on a wine label can make all the difference when it comes to the experience you'll find inside the bottle; it's just understood. Just because you loved the 1999 version doesn't mean the 2003 will offer the same satisfaction. But what, exactly, determines the product that comes from a certain year's harvest? Is it simply the weather, or is there more that shapes the final product?<br />
One factor is the evolution of production methods that has occurred over the last few decades. There have always been especially skilled winemakers and vintners who know all the tricks to dealing with a "challenging" year, but in the past there were plenty who did not. This is much less true today, when a great many winemakers start their career in university, studying oenology. The end result is more "good" years. Or in other words, more successful (and enjoyable) vintages in the bottle.<br />
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Vintage variation shapes wines in every region of the world, but no place is better known for this than Bordeaux. I recently enjoyed tasting through three different vintages, from two Bordeaux producers, and the vintage contrast to be clearly evident. In addition, I was able to discuss this topic with a native Bordelaise whose family has been in the business of grape-based alcoholic beverages since 1928. Hortense Bernard, of <a href="http://www.millesima-usa.com/?cm_mmc=Google+PPC-_-USA+-+Marque-_-USA+-+Marque-_-millesima|e" target="_blank">Millesima USA</a>, grew up in Bordeaux, in a family that has been involved with wine and spirits for four generations. She has been passionate about Bordeaux wines since childhood, and is today an expert on what makes one bottle different from another. Her family's company, Millesima, has more then 2,500,000 bottles of Bordeaux in their inventory.<br />
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Our conversation gave me greater insight into the components the come together to create a "vintage". Here are a few notes from that conversation, and about the wines we tasted.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hortense Bernard of Millesima</td></tr>
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<b>B-</b> <b>How is "vintage" about more than just weather?</b><br />
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<b>H-</b> It's not just because it's raining that you take an action, it's the decision you make when it rains. It's also the assemblage, when you mix your varietals and decide which plots go into your first wine and your second. That selection is an important part.<br />
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<b>B-</b> So the character of vintage, in a particular bottle, is dependent on more than just the weather?<br />
<b>H-</b> Yes.<br />
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<b>B-</b> <b>Do Bordeaux producers make different choices regarding varietal blend based on the vintage?</b><br />
<b>H-</b> Since the blend is determined by the percentages of each planted in the vineyards; it doesn't change much. Although vines have to be replanted every so often, sixty years or so, but the terroir of the vineyard dictates the best varietal to plant, and the varietal in the vineyard doesn't change much. There is a selection as to the assemblage (blend) of the first label versus the second label. They will choose which plots to put in the first, and which for the second, based on the quality of the plots in that vintage. That selection is an important fact in making good wines.<br />
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<b>B- Bordeaux producers typically have first labels, and seconds, etc. Do they make less of the first label in a difficult vintage to preserve quality or reputation, putting more juice into the second label?</b><br />
<b>H-</b> Sometimes, but not necessarily. Keep in mind that the first label sells for much more than the second. If they produce much less, it will cost them money. Do they want to make only 10% first label instead of 50%, it all depends on the winery and what they can afford. If your price reflects whats in the bottle, then it doesn't matter. That is a big characteristic of Bordeaux, the fluctuation of price due to the vintage quality.<br />
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<b>B-Does the weather really impact one part of Bordeaux differently than another?</b><br />
<b>H-</b> It seems stupid to speak of differences in weather in Bordeaux, since it is such a small place, but in 2014, for example, the right bank had more rain than left bank, so there was a difference. For example, you may wake up in the morning in New York and think that it's a bad day for the beach, but if you had gone, you would have seen it was lovely, because the weather can vary considerably, just a few miles away. The Medoc, on the left bank, is often different than the right.<br />
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<b>B- How do great winemakers make good wine in a difficult year?</b><br />
<b>H-</b> It's not just the winemaker, but really the team. It's also very important to know your <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terroir" target="_blank">terroir</a>. You can be a good winemaker, and move to another estate, and not manage [well] your first years. You have to know your vines, your soils, how it goes every year, and have recollection of how it goes in the past. There are so many tools he can use to focus what is going to happen, and make a big difference.<br />
That's why the estates that do well every year are the ones that have been repeating [there method] for years and are very consistent.<br />
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<b>B-</b> So vintages from the best producers are more consistent because of their experience with the specific terrior?<br />
<b>H-</b> Yes.<br />
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<b>B-</b> Let's talk about a specific example. In 2003, a very hot vintage, how did producers still make good wine?<br />
<b>H-</b> They accepted what was happening and did something atypical, but that was something really nice too. If you try to make the classic Bordeaux style [under such circumstances] I think you loose something.<br />
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<b>B- The vintage chart, in Millesima catalog, rates 2002 as a good vintage, but 2002 is known for being a very difficult vintage in most of Europe. What made it less so in Bordeaux?</b><br />
<b>H-</b> American consumers love to buy the best vintages; they buy 2000, 2005, 2009, 2010; in between, almost nothing. On my shelves right now there are so many 2002. Americans don't buy the smaller vintages, "in between" vintages. The 2002's are really good right now. They are good, but many need to be consumed earlier.<br />
<b>B- That sounds like a buying opportunity for consumers.</b><br />
<b>H-</b> Yes, because it's cheaper, and the vintage was not lauded. But right now they are drinking really nicely.<br />
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Hortense and I tasted through six Bordeaux wines, from two different producers, to get a sense of the differences that occur from year to year. Tasting "verticals" of the same wine, from the same producer, is a revealing (and fun) way to see how vintage influences the final product, since other factors are equal.<br />
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<b> <u>Three Vintages From Two Bordeaux Producers</u></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkC3cXUj6fa9YWIPkEYc6HncNb_Jc6jkChnWtaW0OuYgGWUWsD-pGFKisLu0hXKioCYqoVyzktjy5AcTGt99bIHUWlyaypO-htlc8Z5BH5yyqTYBCeMWQ0dXTaE3N74vYlPYLH2wXCMDE/s1600/20150312_203207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkC3cXUj6fa9YWIPkEYc6HncNb_Jc6jkChnWtaW0OuYgGWUWsD-pGFKisLu0hXKioCYqoVyzktjy5AcTGt99bIHUWlyaypO-htlc8Z5BH5yyqTYBCeMWQ0dXTaE3N74vYlPYLH2wXCMDE/s320/20150312_203207.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.bernard-magrez.com/en/content/chateau-fombrauge">Chateau Fombrauge</a>, Saint-Emillion, Bordeaux, France</u></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfsLDiVy02hKvXsKCYYjTsBxcGbZxWAmIYB7weBXfhqAMz6Q0jBWwamHGSxh2IHHcUPx4QywW1RlitRPyIroM7GL23VpwU1O9HztI6JMEsEl_MAbsaT70A5dyb_QGzCGTaYvhSH7hy1A/s1600/20150312_203212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglfsLDiVy02hKvXsKCYYjTsBxcGbZxWAmIYB7weBXfhqAMz6Q0jBWwamHGSxh2IHHcUPx4QywW1RlitRPyIroM7GL23VpwU1O9HztI6JMEsEl_MAbsaT70A5dyb_QGzCGTaYvhSH7hy1A/s320/20150312_203212.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
2003 Ch. Fombrauge, Saint-Emillion Grand Cru</h4>
Quite forward in the nose with coffee, dense black plum, a bit of anise, and a layer of fresh blackberry on top, There's also a subtle floral perfume note. There is full black fruit on the palate that is fairly round, with firm edges and subtle acidity.The finish shows focused tannins and lingering espresso notes. Dense, charming, and a bit yummy.<br />
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2008 Ch. Fombrauge, Saint-Emillion Grand Cru</h4>
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Very different than the 2003 with a more finessed nature. While the fruit is still dense and solid, the characteristics are that of dried red raspberry, dried black plum with gravel Earth, pretty floral notes, some forest floor, and subtle pencil lead. The palate shows more lean black fruit, with a firm texture, and a pleasant, easy finish.</div>
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2010 Ch. Fombrauge, Saint-Emillion Grand Cru</h4>
The nose takes some coaxing at first, showing limited notes of brooding dark fruit, with fine firm edges. Black cherry, and blackberry, charred meat, and lanolin fill things out with some time in the glass. The palate has savory, mouth-watering black fruit, with bright acidity and fresh blackberry.The finish is long, savory, and satisfying. Complete from beginning to end, this is complex, and seductive, albeit reserved.<br />
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<u><a href="http://www.pontet-canet.com/index-en.php">Ch, Pontet Canet</a>, Les Hauts de Pontet Canet, Paulliac, Bordeaux, France</u></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzbIVlnOeyk2tB1fKRGx8eHSV5_MBrzDmmBwlv6XqzZ5C-o2x4fs0xubhTalflJ2OBXLFw0qerhin4vgwy6Nx_GHOBqKGHkzYiEKthevnJ6fCWrSFZ-sX_k392GzT-izKO2uTy7lwjjI/s1600/20150312_203232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCzbIVlnOeyk2tB1fKRGx8eHSV5_MBrzDmmBwlv6XqzZ5C-o2x4fs0xubhTalflJ2OBXLFw0qerhin4vgwy6Nx_GHOBqKGHkzYiEKthevnJ6fCWrSFZ-sX_k392GzT-izKO2uTy7lwjjI/s320/20150312_203232.jpg" width="180" /></a>2000 Les Hauts de Pontet Canet, Paulliac 13% ABV, $50</h4>
Raspberry, blackberry preserves, cured meats, and subtle notes of mint and smoke make up the nose with later notes of coffee coming out. Complex and elegant on the nose. The palate shows fresh clean fruit character, with crushed lean blackberry and dried plum underscored by tobacco, coffee, dried herbs, and a savory finish. Well balanced with nice acidity providing freshness. The tannins are fine grained, providing an easy grip.<br />
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2005 Les Hauts de Pontet Canet, Paulliac 13% ABV, $50</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEyQ4I8dtKe6pNMGWb6GbDOX7Kk2K2Acor-erFMOglpXSUMPC7lA-3c4f3siy7pJc-sbeY5CBLDRf3iAiyYoym3wXKYgfHTxX1jzMjfnjPgCDL08OIE-bjtjgYbkMcRd_04OsLutau2hY/s1600/20150312_203240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEyQ4I8dtKe6pNMGWb6GbDOX7Kk2K2Acor-erFMOglpXSUMPC7lA-3c4f3siy7pJc-sbeY5CBLDRf3iAiyYoym3wXKYgfHTxX1jzMjfnjPgCDL08OIE-bjtjgYbkMcRd_04OsLutau2hY/s320/20150312_203240.jpg" width="180" /></a>Pretty dried floral nose highlight the fresh, clean black currant and blackberry. Mild Earthiness underscores the nose, along with bitter dark chocolate notes. The palate is full and firm with lean blackberry, lovely fresh acidity, and a pleasant lightness. Later notes of coffee appear on the firm finish. </div>
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2008 Les Hauts de Pontet Canet, Paulliac 13% ABV, $66</h4>
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Most prominent on the nose are notes of dried basil and other aromatic dried herbs overlying ripe red cherry and red plum with dried pomegranate. There's an elusive note of anise there as well, but very subtle. The palate is well balanced, medium to light weight, with plenty of acidity. Cured tobacco, char-grilled meat, and subtle pencil shavings make-up the profile. The finish is brief and a bit tart with fine grained tannins that are subdued. Easy drinking with understated complexity.</div>
Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-61602995946208671862016-07-08T18:07:00.000-07:002016-07-08T18:14:15.346-07:00Satisfaction: 2010 Bouchard Clos De La Mousse <br />
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2010 <a href="http://www.bouchard-pereetfils.com/en/" target="_blank">Bouchard Pere & Fils</a> 1er Cru Beaune Clos De La Mousse Burgundy, France 13.5% ABV, $50</h4>
Deep, Earthy strawberry and spiced strawberry preserves form the anchor to this wonderfully layered nose. Immediately, and over time in the glass, solid details emerge: grilled meats dusted with a microscopic pinch of cocoa, Earthy mineral, warm dried herbs, dried rose petals and toasted hazelnuts. The palate is firm, medium weight and satisfying, showing charred Earth, dried strawberry, red cherry skins, dark mineral, clean tannins and a perfect amount of acidity. Finshes with good length and lingering notes of charred red cherry and flinty Earth. Solid from first pour to last sip; this with clearly age well. 93 PtsBrunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-52379958760059953452016-05-01T17:35:00.001-07:002016-05-02T18:13:55.873-07:00Dal Forno - Incredible<b>At the very top of the wine spectrum in Veneto is Dal Forno Romano, producing wines of the highest standard and quality. This quality comes at a price, but it's an experience that is hard to forget. Here are two examples I recently enjoyed.</b><br />
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<a href="http://eng.dalfornoromano.it/">Dal Forno</a> Romano, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, 2009, 16.5% ABV, $300</h4>
Powerful finesse, is the overriding descriptor for this wonderful wine. The nose begins with dense, dark, sweet, fruit notes dried blackberry and warm strawberry with pie spice, sweet, dried, aromatic tobacco, and charred violet incense. The palate is delicious and complex with fruit that is concentrated but fresh, with flavors of blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry all present. These flavors are dense, but have a lean edge and good acidity, supported by fine grained grip and notes of 90% cacao chocolate. The palate has a weightless character that offsets the density beautifully. Everything is underscored by the grip and juicy acidity. The finish lingers for minutes. 98 Pts<br />
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<a href="http://eng.dalfornoromano.it/">Dal Forno</a> Romano, Valpolicella Superiore DOC, 2009, 14.5% ABV, $90</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Yg8RiFOiw9kYwiebQQEQoB7QgITtk2ch6_17yMsACASJ3UHSHsYv1XntpE2M32THrTHaM7skab0gDWY5S0_Kdfo4HCphSjHsEBTy2Z41Xjg55XzGMj2LEJQfVIlEVsGwvpANwV_QapI/s1600/20150916_133050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Yg8RiFOiw9kYwiebQQEQoB7QgITtk2ch6_17yMsACASJ3UHSHsYv1XntpE2M32THrTHaM7skab0gDWY5S0_Kdfo4HCphSjHsEBTy2Z41Xjg55XzGMj2LEJQfVIlEVsGwvpANwV_QapI/s400/20150916_133050.jpg" width="225" /></a>The details in the nose of this incredible wine just keep manifesting themselves over several minutes of examination. Those details include sweet dark tobacco, charred meat, ripe black fruit, blackberry liquor, perfumed ink, fresh aromatic herbs, sweet vanilla, and a suggestion of toasted coconut. The palate is fresh, energetic and delicious with lean blackberry and black currant, dried herbs, and tobacco. There's plenty of supporting acidity, excellent balance, and super-fine mouth-coating tannins. Made in the <a href="https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=appassimento%20process">appassimento method</a>, with grapes dried for 90 days, this "Valpolicella" behaves like a top Amarone. Aged 36 months in new barrique and 24 months in bottle. 97 Pts</div>
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<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-4782614749322615462016-02-13T07:56:00.000-08:002016-02-13T18:57:40.042-08:00Thinking Pink?<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiar_GVmgijGaGOz-I7TJXkrCwME_597Doogvo4dL3Fdb1lAZBJVaXkHeSuQsU6bR-wbRoAAzD-cEQ1wmepUSaWWWR9NDRSR_oYbCpD8tz87coweXLfRlvGCa_ko9A_awtdw5s7msDxhUU/s1600/20160124_101122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiar_GVmgijGaGOz-I7TJXkrCwME_597Doogvo4dL3Fdb1lAZBJVaXkHeSuQsU6bR-wbRoAAzD-cEQ1wmepUSaWWWR9NDRSR_oYbCpD8tz87coweXLfRlvGCa_ko9A_awtdw5s7msDxhUU/s320/20160124_101122.jpg" width="320" /></a>It's that time of year again, when plans are made for romantic dinners with that special someone. Along with that comes flowers, perhaps jewelry, and often times a lovely bottle of wine. Rose', with it's romantic color, seems especially appropriate; and maybe something sparkling to add excitement. Here are a few pleasant options to consider, from around the world, that will lend festivity and beauty to any special occasion.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shades of Pinkness</td></tr>
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2011 Szigeti Brut Rose' Pinot Noir Burgenland, Austria 13% ABV, $25 -Sparkling</h4>
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Beautiful crystal pink color with a delicate nose of fresh strawberry, clean mineral, pure crushed raspberry and a hint of fresh bread. There are also subtle notes of ginger spice and tangerine. The palate is fresh and energetic with more tangerine, peach, and wild strawberry notes with underlying minerality. Well balanced and a little savory on the finish. Lasts well in the glass, and satisfies. 88 Pts<br />
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2015 Dom. Tournon "Mathilda" M. Chapoutier Victoria, Australia 12%ABV, $16 -Still</h4>
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Light and refreshing with notes of dried strawberries, savory mineral Earth, and some subtle dried flowers. The palate is fresh and light with strawberry, raspberry, tangerine, a little dried herbs and fresh acidity, There's a pleasant chewy texture on the finish as well. 86 Pts<br />
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NV Francios Montand Brut Rose' Jura, France 11% ABV, $15 -Sparkling</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikE_Tz_2auVreLUQPizaAETiPZTPgsbH12VU3qIueEWM7GjNIAgdH6PIHF8U0YiHhlObfwhH13kRNaxzINIVz15No1ZWKs1GYYpmXQgsdJrq-rYwyhmrkGCYEkLwmnRKYPcOBGknZdq_k/s1600/20160124_100929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikE_Tz_2auVreLUQPizaAETiPZTPgsbH12VU3qIueEWM7GjNIAgdH6PIHF8U0YiHhlObfwhH13kRNaxzINIVz15No1ZWKs1GYYpmXQgsdJrq-rYwyhmrkGCYEkLwmnRKYPcOBGknZdq_k/s320/20160124_100929.jpg" width="180" /></a>This sparkling wine has a lovely Salmon color and a finessed overall character. The nose is clean and refreshing with subtle raspberry fruit and tart fresh strawberry. The palate is light and peppy with more strawberry and raspberry notes, a bit of mineral underneath, some toast, and easy acidity. granache and cinsault, made in the traditional method of Champagne. 87 Pts<br />
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NV Zardetto "Z" Rose Spumante Veneto, Italy 12% ABV, $17 -Sparkling</h4>
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The nose is crisp and clean with delicate strawberry, dried red cherry, mineral, and a hint of bread dough. The palate has a soft texture and creamy bubbles, with wild strawberries, a savory note, nice minerality, and some earthiness. Food friendly. 100% Raboso Varonese. 87 Pts</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOeR24IfPVztOn1JRlQNcE6rrQjToVi4RUq6L02Y9wFe_JxolhB7oqutLy9qVEjr9G8lfUH704kT4Di2TE3-qxlt8dYuj3q4ktD1xrHTIzHjVoldYNBqdHW5l3Qf7m9EBmn9fm8tEees/s1600/20160124_100742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOeR24IfPVztOn1JRlQNcE6rrQjToVi4RUq6L02Y9wFe_JxolhB7oqutLy9qVEjr9G8lfUH704kT4Di2TE3-qxlt8dYuj3q4ktD1xrHTIzHjVoldYNBqdHW5l3Qf7m9EBmn9fm8tEees/s320/20160124_100742.jpg" width="180" /></a>NV Juve & Camps Brut Rose Cava DO, Spain 12% ABV, $16 -Sparkling</h4>
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This one has a beautiful, crystalline, ruby color that is stunning on the table. The nose has nice depth with ripe, dried, strawberry and dried cherry, some sweet dried flowers and a tart little nip. The palate is clean and dry with raspberry fruit, mineral underneath, and zippy bubbles. There is a long satisfying finish with lingering minerality. 100% Pinot Noir 88 Pts.</div>
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Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-52136460901562249252015-12-27T09:45:00.000-08:002015-12-28T13:58:43.894-08:00Franciacorta - Fine Traditional Bubbles From Northern Italy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GA0awrcwHdbaTFMP-QijWO9NENQxOEOjZUYb0_wWbS79hkP9SsBNpoQkDHWPKH2_IjaZeJ1kEqSbS7bi6btxkshCOmXNc_d6ytPUC1RRKoRXBlfL-NWHHn2bKfFvq_tgDTbnuvNtXuU/s1600/20151114_092507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GA0awrcwHdbaTFMP-QijWO9NENQxOEOjZUYb0_wWbS79hkP9SsBNpoQkDHWPKH2_IjaZeJ1kEqSbS7bi6btxkshCOmXNc_d6ytPUC1RRKoRXBlfL-NWHHn2bKfFvq_tgDTbnuvNtXuU/s400/20151114_092507.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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What is more appropriate than a dry sparkling wine, made in the <i><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparkling_wine_production">methode champenoise</a>, </i>to start a <br />
festive event? Certainly the pop of the cork and the tickle of the bubbles adds to the importance of these occasions. Even better, is when the wines are of top quality, as is the case of those from Franciacorta DOCG. Produced in the Iseo Lake region, of southern Lombardy, these wines provide an excellent option for special occasions. While other enjoyable sparkling wines can be found in Italy, few reach the quality level that is the standard of Franciacorta.<br />
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DOCG regulations help ensure that Franciacorta is traditional in its style, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir being the primary varietals used; Pinot Blanc is also permitted, but is much less common in the blends. Regulations also require the traditional Champagne method, but with a minimum of 24 months in bottle, six months longer than in Champagne. Consumers will find these wines to be primarily in the Brut category, showing very low levels of residual sugar. They are typically clean and crisp, with bright minerality, and an overall fresh character. Lovers of fine, sparkling wine should become familiar with the Franciacorta option. <br />
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Here are some examples I tasted recently from two top Franciacorta producers, <a href="http://www.baronepizzini.it/en/">Barone Pizzini</a> and <a href="http://www.vinilavalle.it/en/">La Valle</a>.<br />
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NV La Valle "Primum" Brut Franciacorta DOCG 12.5% ABV, $40</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MLWLfNtEIiKlIp1NiIIFYgMyxOqCSTniwylZl1hLZz3kPF0yH3nKHuGEC5Gcq9J1HDhyKhttP-E7Kz2iNlv9fqspVlHDGmGUIrFER-JNp-iWdiom4AVIEwgFWR9EMz3IZCOfLnIKdV8/s1600/20151126_162800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3MLWLfNtEIiKlIp1NiIIFYgMyxOqCSTniwylZl1hLZz3kPF0yH3nKHuGEC5Gcq9J1HDhyKhttP-E7Kz2iNlv9fqspVlHDGmGUIrFER-JNp-iWdiom4AVIEwgFWR9EMz3IZCOfLnIKdV8/s320/20151126_162800.jpg" width="180" /></a>The nose is vibrant with fresh lemon flesh, sweet mineral notes, and some dried grapefruit. Very clean and energetic. The palate is well balanced and seamless with ripe lemon, some green apple, and subtle savory notes. There's a soft and easy texture on the mid-palate and a mildly tart finish with gentle minerality lingering. Lovely, complete, and very easy to drink. 93 Pts</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh240TXZeipxEaRRmhaEM_yoeju-9fsXSoxFldEiSkNx-LfApYg02HxhDUVfk09mc214aKuz1v-cTmP3k3ROSGRw8DzRF4ju_A_kOg8mfQV7VC_5IsG6esTTafSLHPC78UkT0XVoTOFSSA/s1600/20151119_175402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh240TXZeipxEaRRmhaEM_yoeju-9fsXSoxFldEiSkNx-LfApYg02HxhDUVfk09mc214aKuz1v-cTmP3k3ROSGRw8DzRF4ju_A_kOg8mfQV7VC_5IsG6esTTafSLHPC78UkT0XVoTOFSSA/s320/20151119_175402.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
2011 Barone Pizzini "Saten" Franciacorta DOCG 12.0% ABV, $45</h4>
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Fresh, finessed lemon and lime notes, on the nose, are complimented by mineral, toasty notes and sweet white flowers. The palate texture is notably soft and silky with tart peach, subtle sweetness underneath, fresh acidity, and lingering minerality. There is a pleasant mousse texture as the bubbles dissolve on the palate. Lovely. 100% Chardonnay 92 Pts</div>
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2009 La Valle "Naturalis" Franciacorta DOCG Extra Brut 12.7% ABV, $55</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2-f86Vixg8FH6Z7-06bQmUCisiJRfwOJW04cMCb4RAR3LIYjq9ElCkPeDo0OuJmDIlh529D-Cqm4wmp4CrVRdBguTKW7zo_bljzNfOIcOqMBhFD62LmbmJEhsjfmiv9XJG38d590nmA/s1600/20151116_170607.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2-f86Vixg8FH6Z7-06bQmUCisiJRfwOJW04cMCb4RAR3LIYjq9ElCkPeDo0OuJmDIlh529D-Cqm4wmp4CrVRdBguTKW7zo_bljzNfOIcOqMBhFD62LmbmJEhsjfmiv9XJG38d590nmA/s320/20151116_170607.jpg" width="180" /></a>The nose is complex and forthcoming with ripe grapefruit flesh, wet stones, white mineral Earth, and a hint of apple pie. Very elegant, with a pure, fresh overall character. The top note on the palate is the pleasant minerality followed by dried lemon rind, some underbrush, crisp acidity and toasted bread. The minerality carries everything to a satisfying, mouthwatering finish, Solid and a little bold. 92 Pts.</div>
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2008 Barone Pizzini "Bagnadore" Franciacorta DOCG Riserva, Dosage Zero 12.0% ABV, $60</h4>
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This single vineyard beauty is a particularly outstanding example of the quality one can find in Franciacorta wines. The nose offers fresh tangerine and lemon flesh with blended mineral notes, and emergent aromas of sliced peaches. On the palate there's tart peach and nectarine, <br />
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and a noteworthy weight to the mouthfeel. Crushed white flowers and minerality and provide further detail that lingers long on the finish. This wine develops very well with time in the glass, and still shows lovely details long after being poured. A complex and elehgant experience. Aged 60 to 70 months in bottle on natural yeasts and named for the nearby river; the grapes come from the vineyard named Roccolo, which is farmed naturally. The winery was one of the first in the region to promote biodiversity and natural farming methods. 50/50 Chardonnay/Pinto Nero 93 Pts</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXE2m8kw6pZOK6YoELRtmqoo-gFwxxrTxKnX5CAP7ImoZIJv-raRW8Wld4JqVyktcrd_SGFzZ75maohkes0S1K1XOXb-JEYIL7k7_OqGDO2t1-caH0Y8hZddlZtcbFFZtO2jsj3u08pg/s1600/20151114_192632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXE2m8kw6pZOK6YoELRtmqoo-gFwxxrTxKnX5CAP7ImoZIJv-raRW8Wld4JqVyktcrd_SGFzZ75maohkes0S1K1XOXb-JEYIL7k7_OqGDO2t1-caH0Y8hZddlZtcbFFZtO2jsj3u08pg/s320/20151114_192632.jpg" width="180" /></a>La Valle Rose Franciacorta DOCG Brut N/V 12.5% ABV, $55</h4>
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The nose is finessed, overall, with floral spice, fresh strawberry, pomegranate and a saline note. The palate has a creamy texture, with tiny bubbles, bread dough, dried strawberry, a subtle savory note, and clean minerality. Nice length on the finish. 90 Pts</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQEdwY6A-VIwMw5UQq1QqyTtgGkwyIaRZHuiGZlVBn1rNGaJfbbapmmZYw5zbdgZMS_gdj5LuQRjP2eci3lxvfGQrgF3zDiYaC3Fr5Zs5J-A5j9U4CE5iChuOiniUBRywij-LgCC2mIwU/s1600/20151114_204130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQEdwY6A-VIwMw5UQq1QqyTtgGkwyIaRZHuiGZlVBn1rNGaJfbbapmmZYw5zbdgZMS_gdj5LuQRjP2eci3lxvfGQrgF3zDiYaC3Fr5Zs5J-A5j9U4CE5iChuOiniUBRywij-LgCC2mIwU/s320/20151114_204130.jpg" width="180" /></a>2011 Barone Pizzini Rose Franciacorta DOCG 12.9% ABV, $45</h4>
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Toasty on the nose with bread dough, dried raspberry, tangerine undertones, and a nice tangy snap. Over time in the glass, plenty of detail emerges, filling out the personality. On the palate there's great texture, with minerally acidity, and a bit of grip, under the lean raspberry and fresh brioche. Shows some nice structure and a long mineral finish. 91 Pts</div>
Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-52946411003137370842015-12-20T07:08:00.002-08:002015-12-21T15:10:40.135-08:00Badia a Coltibuono - Outstanding and Organic<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKGyEZXvZ6FLW70JrtQL1M_QWiHU4scV9Y7qsX2s7lgPOO4TXpiQOQJIXjtZ96oYCwG5uHfChsofDwoe0fAcy_5AuLdpozD4U1CHzlzBNTQ6NuMOicRUdVTkcKzLCkPkHuI_8LlGh0DOw/s1600/20151220_084843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKGyEZXvZ6FLW70JrtQL1M_QWiHU4scV9Y7qsX2s7lgPOO4TXpiQOQJIXjtZ96oYCwG5uHfChsofDwoe0fAcy_5AuLdpozD4U1CHzlzBNTQ6NuMOicRUdVTkcKzLCkPkHuI_8LlGh0DOw/s320/20151220_084843.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://en.coltibuono.com/uploads/navigationphoto/images/min/939a725815fc8ba2b50422d921868782f9a0bc9d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://en.coltibuono.com/uploads/navigationphoto/images/min/939a725815fc8ba2b50422d921868782f9a0bc9d.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a><a href="http://en.coltibuono.com/">Badia a Coltbuono</a> was established in 1051, yes 1051; that's not a typo. It was founded by the Vallombrosan order, who may have been one of the first to cultivate Sangiovese in the region. Today, the Stucchi Prinetti family runs things, and produces Chianti Classicos that are one of the standards for the area. In addition to being elegant, and impressive, their wines are also organic. The wines of Badia a Coltobuono can be relied upon for consistent quality and stature, year in and year out. Below are a few examples of this go-to wine with a classic Chianti heart.</div>
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2009 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 14.5% ABV $35</h4>
<a href="https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMn73kKcPkOGmKS87Fi-NGEhSTKEBEal_SESVoF"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaayjEX9e0yToM3xfl01b_P0s30MoUlDsKvBHX8BOseyEa8Qppmyj3btRKyELaYlrdrJCqnzMyhZ-Q4DK61Y2TuM4q63ffz802wJh-RBuLcvbLIj9nCmpw9oRQoKBzY_EuVWwPYQRMuW8/s1600/20151212_180107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaayjEX9e0yToM3xfl01b_P0s30MoUlDsKvBHX8BOseyEa8Qppmyj3btRKyELaYlrdrJCqnzMyhZ-Q4DK61Y2TuM4q63ffz802wJh-RBuLcvbLIj9nCmpw9oRQoKBzY_EuVWwPYQRMuW8/s320/20151212_180107.jpg" width="180" /></a>The dark red cherry fruit is beautiful and pure on the nose with rose petal scents and cedar on top. The general character of the nose is fine toned, elegant, and precise. The palate has aromatic red cherry dust, pomegranate, with charred Earth, sandalwood, cardamom, fine texture, and firm undertones. Well structured, with fine grip and dark acidity. The finish lingers nicely, with tart mineral Earth, dried herbs, and leather. 91 Pts.<br />
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2012 "Coltibuono RS" Chianti Classico 13% ABV $15</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCDByNLaEu0j26VJbKVEjjXLZ26Fvp562nYtP2GmkzafZLKHABW2j9cWwJDdsVXxN6KrF8SAj-SoTorXIwONxdukENw4www5LONfwY4G3qOVAEqPhFCBPVNvfGOfKN-sGKZs2l7erTQH8/s1600/20150422_205353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCDByNLaEu0j26VJbKVEjjXLZ26Fvp562nYtP2GmkzafZLKHABW2j9cWwJDdsVXxN6KrF8SAj-SoTorXIwONxdukENw4www5LONfwY4G3qOVAEqPhFCBPVNvfGOfKN-sGKZs2l7erTQH8/s320/20150422_205353.jpg" width="180" /></a>The nose starts off with a distinct, dark, brambly note, followed by a streak of fresh red cherry skins, a little perfumed vanilla, flinty Earth, and dried flowers. The palate is fresh and light with bright red cherry, and red currant, with plenty of acidity, subtle tannins, and a lingering, chewy finish. Aged in French barriques, 120,00 bottles produced. 88 Pts<br />
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1999 Badia a Coltibuno Chianti Classico Riserva 14% ABV, $65</h4>
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2012 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 13% ABV, $20</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie965nJa9R4usose6UMAlBTMX0v2ZSWytW3qF-4kcmIiRTHhkZKU4ouMVYdEKtNIHlVN0rOQ-Lmf0M0Uy5GQjkY2TpAzSEwKW41ziaphsd4a4rRC9FB8XBQH7OIyLX3BTqBVdcVWSe7o0/s1600/20150418_190400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie965nJa9R4usose6UMAlBTMX0v2ZSWytW3qF-4kcmIiRTHhkZKU4ouMVYdEKtNIHlVN0rOQ-Lmf0M0Uy5GQjkY2TpAzSEwKW41ziaphsd4a4rRC9FB8XBQH7OIyLX3BTqBVdcVWSe7o0/s320/20150418_190400.jpg" width="180" /></a>Pure, piercing red fruit is featured on the nose of this solid Chianti Classico with wild dried strawberries and lean red cherries and a subtle core of richness. Notes of dried leaves, iron, and subtle dried mint round out the complexity. The palate is juicy and appealing, with aromatic dried red cherry, nutmeg, mineral Earth, and dried herbs. Well structured with sweet tannins and juicy acidity. Traditional and satisfying. 88 Pts<br />
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Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-20889053619442665682015-11-15T12:27:00.000-08:002015-12-14T17:26:24.439-08:00Four Vintages - Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico<i><b>A study in vintage characteristics<span id="goog_738323335"></span><span id="goog_738323336"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a></b></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsAwGDosrmz792_S1SYhlur__7N-k0PZTqfUHBrtnOsszxIBLozekkevysNu2fz1xG_UnyCIVOu27K09nk-idSkI6SzPeXduTw_CL-wXP6QU6Ewj6pMbCXvXzqF6rbKP1H9eFTWCz_860/s1600/Querceto+Landscape.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsAwGDosrmz792_S1SYhlur__7N-k0PZTqfUHBrtnOsszxIBLozekkevysNu2fz1xG_UnyCIVOu27K09nk-idSkI6SzPeXduTw_CL-wXP6QU6Ewj6pMbCXvXzqF6rbKP1H9eFTWCz_860/s320/Querceto+Landscape.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castello di Querceto in Greve</td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here is a revealing look at vintage differences in a solid traditional Chianti Classico Riserva. <a href="http://www.castellodiquerceto.it/">Castello Querceto</a> produces these wines from grapes grown in a valley near the lovely village of Greve, in the north-eastern part of the Chianti Classico zone. The vineyards are at elevations ranging from 350 to 500 meters, which is very favorable to Sangiovese quality. </span><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;">These wines were composed primarily of Sangiovese, with approximately 5% Canaiolo, and small amounts of other ancient varetals traditional to the region.</span><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Castello Di Querceto was one of 33 founding members of the Chianti Classico Consortium, in 1924. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 22.4889px;">From one vintage to another, t</span>here is little variation in the methods employed to produce these Riservas, with the exception of fine tuning that must be made to deal with variations in weather. This consistency in wine making makes these wines an excellent tool to compare vintage impact on wines in the region. I found the differences to be pronounced and very interesting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><u>2005 Castello Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva, 13.5% ABV, $15</u></span></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCKshphgCw8PSmhQyTdlL1LNHDkqlXdmJemQyBf_Do5nZgXdXad3eDuBYLoubx011JP6D4qS-CimWLzeSIgSlTzj_PdvZWrh8Vm5jOnXwCKNuuS0TgaaqU8H54j_-8DLEpIZMhzgmavao/s1600/20151111_214959.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCKshphgCw8PSmhQyTdlL1LNHDkqlXdmJemQyBf_Do5nZgXdXad3eDuBYLoubx011JP6D4qS-CimWLzeSIgSlTzj_PdvZWrh8Vm5jOnXwCKNuuS0TgaaqU8H54j_-8DLEpIZMhzgmavao/s320/20151111_214959.jpg" width="180" /></a><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The first impression on the nose is that of organic Earth notes and forest floor, suggesting some age. This was less pronounced as it opened up in the glass. Also on the nose is lean red and black cherry with Asian spice and tobacco underneath. The palate is rustic, with dried black cherry, tobacco, leather, and dried herbs. The finish continues the pleasant theme of rusticity with lingering tobacco notes. 88 Pts</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><b><u>2006 Castello Di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva, 13.5% ABV $15</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The nose starts with firm dark fruit, blackberry and black cherry skins, with a little white pepper and anise. There is also a slight note of sweet vanilla. The palate shows more of the same black fruit which is dense and textured with mineral and tobacco notes, and good complexity. This developed well in the glass and was complete from the classic start to the fairly long finish. Well balanced, and satisfying. 91Pts</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><u><b>2007 Castello Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva, 13.5% ABV, $15</b></u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">Beautiful aromas of spiced, ripe, black cherry flesh pushes out of the glass to meet you. This is followed by aromatic dried herbs, and some dried flower notes. On the palate, there is ripeness at the core of the black cherry and blackberry fruit, with firm edges supporting it, </span><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;">dried herbs, cardamom, and some mineral.</span><span style="font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> There's a distinct contrast between the plush nose and leaner palate. 89 Pts</span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH93y9K-caqnDhsPEwGdP2-qCyTQSOTAoZJK_AtzlJ-CPN0HqG1lR3TsDSu-iD0F7vSv95FPQm6Zw3wPhCNkqdHGa6_6VQyteiM7f0IegTJH3DlCK0y0FIz0-EdIidx44qznPWA-YOkf8/s1600/20151126_145245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH93y9K-caqnDhsPEwGdP2-qCyTQSOTAoZJK_AtzlJ-CPN0HqG1lR3TsDSu-iD0F7vSv95FPQm6Zw3wPhCNkqdHGa6_6VQyteiM7f0IegTJH3DlCK0y0FIz0-EdIidx44qznPWA-YOkf8/s320/20151126_145245.jpg" width="180" /></a><b style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></b>
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<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "calibri"; font-size: 14.666666666666666px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><u><b>2009 Castello Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva, 13.5% ABV, $15</b></u></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8OMwHg3Jjs0dbbDJTiMjkdA2eq-yHJeTLugYbD93x_2MF-FU3XrZ-LF9ZzjCEdeooSBe1kQTbkfwvd4-wBa3B06faJ422KMhLNHoLhP52UwC27K4yh4NuhCT-mtxv3t6unl537nM-8_M/s1600/20151110_204426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8OMwHg3Jjs0dbbDJTiMjkdA2eq-yHJeTLugYbD93x_2MF-FU3XrZ-LF9ZzjCEdeooSBe1kQTbkfwvd4-wBa3B06faJ422KMhLNHoLhP52UwC27K4yh4NuhCT-mtxv3t6unl537nM-8_M/s320/20151110_204426.jpg" width="180" /></a><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;">This one is </span><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 18.4px; white-space: pre-wrap;">straightforward</span><span style="font-size: 14.6667px; line-height: 1.38; white-space: pre-wrap;"> with firm red cherry and a bit of dried herbs on the nose. The palate has tart red cherry, fresh acidity, and good grip. The elements that form the base of any decent Chianti are here, but not much else. There are no flaws, per se; it just doesn’t go past the basics. Earthy, baseline Chianti. I've tasted the 2009 Riserva from bottles with two different labels, but there was no noteworthy difference between the two. 86 Pts</span></span><br />
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Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-73981988462814956172015-10-15T16:15:00.000-07:002015-10-20T16:26:42.766-07:00Producer Focus: La Fiorita<h4>
<i><span style="color: #351c75; font-size: large;">Making Wines with Style and Grace</span></i></h4>
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The lovely floral label, on a bottle of <a href="http://www.lafiorita.com/index.php?lg=en">La Fiorita</a> Brunello Di Montalcino, is a fitting allusion to what one will find inside, and to the qualities of the people who make it. <b>Roberto Cipresso</b> and <b>Natalie Oliveros</b> are the team that have blended their individual talents to take La Fiorita to a high standard, and beautiful style. Here is some of the story behind this excellent Brunello producer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roberto and Natalie at La Masseria New York</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Natalie Oliveros and Her 2006 LaFiorita Riserva</td></tr>
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Natalie, Roberto, the Vineyards, and the Wine</h4>
I recently spoke with Natalie, as we shared a bottle of her 2006 Riserva Brunello, and enjoyed seeing her love for wine making, and for La Fiorita. Her first venture into wine came when she partnered with Roberto Cipresso, in 2006, producing wines made from grapes grown in the Lazio and Campania regions, under the "Savanna" label. These wines, produced from special ancient varietals, were critically acclaimed, and decidedly flamboyant in their branding. <br />
Not long after that, Natalie bought-out Roberto's partners at La Fiorita, and teamed with him to produce Brunello Di Montalcino.<br />
Their Brunelli are blended from the fruit of two distinctly different vineyards, adding greater complexity to the final product.The two vineyards of La Fiorita are Poggio al Sole (150 m elev.) and Pian Bossolino (350 m elev.), both located in the Castelnuovo dell'Abate region of the Brunello DOCG zone. The impressive 2006 Riserva that we enjoyed, was composed of Pian Bossolino fruit only, although it's not designated as a single vineyard wine. The '06 normale Brunello was composed of grapes from both vineyards.<br />
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Natalie described an additional vineyard that they are adding (Giardinello?) , where they are converting an area that was an olive grove. "It's very beautiful with a staircase down the middle leading away from a pool, with roses, ancient olive trees, and a statue. The vineyard is south-west facing, with sandy soil" Sounds beautiful. </div>
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The winery itself is <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/La+Fiorita/@43.044166,11.416453,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x1329773ed6b911b3:0xf0acdd781d9697f3?hl=en">located </a>about 15 minutes west of the village of Montalcino. There they produce less than 30,000 precious bottles. Another factor that adds to the quality of their wines is the aging time before it is released. <a href="http://www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it/index.php?lg=en&p=5">The DOCG laws</a> require 24 months in wood and 4 months in bottle before it can be released; La Fiorita ages for 24 months in barrel, 8 months in steel, and another 24 months in bottle. The barrel time is further divided by 12 months in French barrique and 12 months in large Slavonian Botti. This results in an arrival to market slightly later than many of their Montalcinese counterparts, but they believe it is necessary for the best expression.</div>
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I asked Natalie if she finds people fail to respect her role at La Fiorita, and discount her value, since she is a woman who did not grow up in the wine business. "Yes, I do get that sometimes. I'll be talking about the wine, and the vineyards, and people will turn to someone else in the middle of a sentence, and I'm like, "Hellooo?" On the subject of respect she says, "I love it when I sense people are discounting my role, and knowledge of wine, and then I see their expression change as they realize I do know what I'm talking about, and I am fully involved in the wine. That gives me some satisfaction."<br />
Natalie has put real effort into learning about wine making, getting involved in the process, and understanding what makes the La Fiorita wine style.</div>
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"I became interested in wine through my ex-husband, and met Roberto [Cipresso] through him, and decided that I wanted to do more with wine, and build on my knowledge."</div>
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As a child Natalie had some exposure to wine making, as her father would make wine every year in the cellar of their home in Gouveneur, NY, located in the far north, near Canada. Today, Natalie says of her move into the wine business, "I wanted to do something my family could be proud of....this is who I am today."</div>
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Natalie is actively involved in the business decisions for the winery, for example, recently deciding whether to lease or purchase a new tractor and working it out with their accountant. She also contributes her opinions on the blending of the wines, although she says, "It's Roberto Cipresso's baby". </div>
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I asked her about the style of La Fiorita wines, their elegance and the brand. </div>
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Natalie explained, "It's the wine that made me fall in love with Roberto as a winemaker." "But I never really liked the label...it was kind of masculine." </div>
"So you designed a different label?" "Yes, I wanted to keep true to the brand, but added these roses that represent the beauty in the vineyard, and an elegant style. Like a clean slate."<br />
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<b>Roberto Cipresso </b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roberto Cipresso </td></tr>
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Roberto began his career with wine in 1985, at <a href="http://www.soldera.it/en/default-fx.htm"> Case Basse</a>, the home of Gianfranco Soldera, and (arguably) the greatest Brunello made. Working along side a master of Sangiovese, such a Soldera, was certainly a great place to build a reservoir of knowledge. From there he moved on to become the Director of Ciacci Piccolomini, in 1987, and then established La Fiorita in 1992. Mixed in with that history are countless affiliations with other winery's and accolades for wine making greatness. Considering Roberto's bio, it is no surprise that the wines of La Fiorita are so beautiful.</div>
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Natalie said, "He has a special passion for La Fiorita. He oversees a lot of vineyards, but this one is his very own."</div>
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Together, this passionate duo has taken La Fiorita to a place of high quality, and beauty.</div>
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Here are my notes on a few La Fiorita Brunelli I have tasted recently.</h4>
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2009 La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino 14.5% ABV $65</h4>
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The nose starts off with beautiful, dense, black cherry flesh, subtle smoke, dried aromatic herbs, and some charcoal. The palate is solid, with substantial fruit presence, but good balance. Balckberry and lean black cherry lead the way with some underbrush and anise compliments. The structure is refined, and sufficient, with fine grained tannins, and enough acidity to keep it fresh and energetic. 90 Pts<br />
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2008 La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino 14.5% ABV $70</h4>
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The nose is elegant and pure, with fragrant red cherry and Asian spice and a fresh and clean character. The palate is forward with a ripe core of raspberry and red cherry flesh. The fruit is luscious and mouthwatering with dried herbs in the finish. Balanced and easy to drink. 90 Pts<br />
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2007 La Fiorita Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino 14% ABV $95</h4>
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There is beautiful depth on the nose, with rich Asian spice,anise, fragrant red cherry and red cherry skins, a little burnt orange rind, and a faint layer of crushed forest leaves. Later the nose shows subtle dried flowers. The palate continues the theme of aromatic red cherry, with subtle tartness, and mineral underneath. Dried sweet herbs, sweet tannins, and mouthwatering acidity add to the completeness. There is excellent texture and detail in this wine, and good length on the finish. Thoroughly enjoyable. 93 Pts. </div>
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2007 La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino 14% ABV $55</h4>
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Pretty dried floral aromas and subtle pie spice form a layer atop the black cherry flesh on the nose of this lovely wine. Underneath, there is a subtle woodland aroma, with dried violets, and a bit of iodine, providing a nice counterpoint. The palate has delicious spiced black and red cherry flesh, a bit of strawberry, with lingering tobacco and black fruit on the long finish. Well balanced, aromatic, and very drinkable. 91 Pts<br />
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2006 La Fiorita Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino 14% ABV $70</h4>
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Decanted for 1 hour. Wonderfully spiced red and black cherry fruit with strawberry notes as well. Notes of fennel, nutmeg, and other dried herbs overlay the fruit, along with dried flowers and dusty aromatic wood.<br />
The palate is pleasantly chewy, with a fine granularity. More sweet spice and dark cherry extract with strawberry preserves and some plum. Quite dense all around, with a pretty layer as well. The structure features juicy acidty and moderate tannins, both playing an important balancing role to the rest of the characteristics. The finish is long and interesting with spice cake and mineral notes.<br />
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This riserva walks the line between modern and traditional very well. There is plenty here for everyone: fruit, texture, structure, and satisfaction. Interestingly, this wine spends time in both new French oak and traditional Slavonian botti, which apparently helps with it's split personality. Also contributing to the traditional side is the altitude of the vineyard from which these grapes are sourced, 320 meters located in the Castelnuovo dell'Abate subzone of the Montalcino DOCG, an area rich in fine Brunello producers. 92 Pts.</div>
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2004 La Fiorita Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino 14% ABV $100</h4>
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Masculine, deep and rich on the nose, with dark red cherry, red currant, some spiced Earth, and dried rose petals. The palate shows lean red cherry fruit, mineral, leather, and aromatic Earth. Lean on the finish, with easy acidity, lingering anise notes, and fine grained tannins. 91 Pts.</div>
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<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-6299641677899115342015-08-29T10:16:00.001-07:002018-01-29T07:40:08.591-08:002010 Brunello Vintage Report - Part 1<h4>
Benvenuto Brunello 2010 </h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThmvNpnrfBZyYAt9JMsTESZlwIEcFzW4nzZpCmUvEZIx2rl4DUdXZtncAnARWMzaCVZTMezV3LY9Q0NcpMzNopObaJoDJXoptTweJXrzBh5V_vN3-hi18ARdxi_8J_1VzF7bTQ9VmSdY/s1600/20150128_121508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThmvNpnrfBZyYAt9JMsTESZlwIEcFzW4nzZpCmUvEZIx2rl4DUdXZtncAnARWMzaCVZTMezV3LY9Q0NcpMzNopObaJoDJXoptTweJXrzBh5V_vN3-hi18ARdxi_8J_1VzF7bTQ9VmSdY/s400/20150128_121508.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I very much enjoyed this year's Benvenuto Brunello event, where approximately forty producers gathered to introduce the 2010 vintage. The setting was Gotham Hall, in Manhattan, as it has been for the last three years. It is a wonderful space, and a well run event, but the best part, of course, was the wine. This year was especially wonderful because the current vintage release is 2010.<br />
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After tasting approximately 40 examples of 2010 Brunello, it is safe to say this is an outstanding and classic vintage; a fact that is fairly well known thanks to the abundant press to that effect. Perhaps the most pronounced common thread among these examples is the freshness of fruit; not a "new wine" kind of fruit, but rather a freshly cut black and red fruit style. This freshness supports a finesse that I saw in many examples. By finesse, I mean an elegance despite the firm power and structure that comes with well made Brunello.<br />
In a word, 2010 Brunello Di Montalcino is versatile. So many of them are drinking well now, but are still showing great composition, balance, and depth that indicates they will last and improve with age.<br />
You won't find very many highly extracted "fruit bombs" in this year's class, except for those producers who have that style as a deliberate goal, but the fruit is completely ripe, and well supported by the acidity essential to the Brunello experience. The tannins are there as well, and in some cases they are pronounced, but that only speaks to the longevity of the vintage, which should be significant. Add to that the prevalence of great balance, and you have a vintage made for the classic Brunello lover.<br />
Is this the vintage of the century or of a lifetime? I hope not, since this is the way Brunello should be every year, weather permitting. Should you run out and buy 2010 Brunello? Of course, but don't forget the other vintages which will be available at a lower price. Personally, I'm shopping for 2004 and 2006, in addition to the '10s. Enjoy!<br />
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Here are my notes on a few representatives and favorites from the event, and elsewhere.*<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8u6u-bppBW4jMggXIg-iYiAYP3tHeIO0ADmZRt9CY82FYhWQcwNvTPTI6iZpbbCEBD4pfsFaA5IRogh3cnyBWIbG8EiTJOXIGiz0e4KlStSh7FsE1NQrslukMDzB07L8KIi3iNtHfpMc/s1600/20150120_134013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8u6u-bppBW4jMggXIg-iYiAYP3tHeIO0ADmZRt9CY82FYhWQcwNvTPTI6iZpbbCEBD4pfsFaA5IRogh3cnyBWIbG8EiTJOXIGiz0e4KlStSh7FsE1NQrslukMDzB07L8KIi3iNtHfpMc/s1600/20150120_134013.jpg" width="180" /></a>
2010 Le Ragnaie "Fornace" Brunello Di Montalcino $14% ABV $120</h4>
There's a
"wow" factor as the aromas push their way out of the glass making an immediate
impression with
dark, warm, red cherry blended with cardamom, turmeric, and cloves.The
palate has a savory character, with sweet charred meats, anise, dark
Earth, dried basil, and wonderful aromatic action. Quite complex, and
hard to pin down, which is what I love about well made Sangiovese wines. Very well balanced and complete, with plenty of
stuffing and a long finish. 96 Pts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffw-_ShUHbCYrktxcHDBNfqsg3ccPDFz5J5_fL0p9HtUvfSBHLnGf-eqWclcHaOT-u13Fo7ohogWop1XRSUgBhUp1exz9tAIepbbiqlaEZYdUN4tDQSBO-2xVG_58V7fDxEJBJINznOc/s1600/20150120_171845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhffw-_ShUHbCYrktxcHDBNfqsg3ccPDFz5J5_fL0p9HtUvfSBHLnGf-eqWclcHaOT-u13Fo7ohogWop1XRSUgBhUp1exz9tAIepbbiqlaEZYdUN4tDQSBO-2xVG_58V7fDxEJBJINznOc/s1600/20150120_171845.jpg" width="180" /></a>
2010 Il Poggione Brunello Di Montalcino 14.5% ABV $65</h4>
The nose is solid and finessed at the same time, showing dense, firm black cherry fruit and skins, with some warm spice, rose petals, and lanolin. The palate has a dignified character with plenty of detail, but expressed in a reserved way, letting out a little at a time. There is delicious spiced red cherry with fresh acidity, and a firm streak. In addition there are layers of tobacco, aromatic dried herbs, and a faint dairy note. Clearly poised for a long life and improvement with integration, it can easily be enjoyed now too. Il Poggione consistently produces excellent, traditional Brunello at a price point that is very good for this level of quality and the 2010 is a prime example. 95 Pts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKbJIP7plmZ4g2ycy4pncvt9KYvFDiLIzXf7RA0JCLT9v6bPhy2ZOfaM9hNFKVHIg7oGPYOLT5koIRo5KF0X21zYkMRUjQ0h1XDcqyyXIKb-Qu3smkZL4o1azJBCKsbikaFw61qhQvnOs/s1600/20150120_172208.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKbJIP7plmZ4g2ycy4pncvt9KYvFDiLIzXf7RA0JCLT9v6bPhy2ZOfaM9hNFKVHIg7oGPYOLT5koIRo5KF0X21zYkMRUjQ0h1XDcqyyXIKb-Qu3smkZL4o1azJBCKsbikaFw61qhQvnOs/s1600/20150120_172208.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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2010 <a href="http://www.aziendaagricolalechiuse.it/index.php/en/">Le Chiuse</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 13.5% ABV $57</h4>
The nose is full and firm with minerally black fruit richness at the core, faint vanilla bean, dates, sweet grilled meats, a little dark chocolate, and a layer of dried flowers.There's a pleasant, slightly chewy texture to the palate, with baked red cherry fruit that combines rusticity with subtle sweetness. The grilled meat carries through on the palate as well. Finishes with savory notes, and good balance. 89-90 Pts<br />
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2010 <a href="http://castellobanfi.com/en/">Castello Banfi</a> "Poggio lle Mura" Brunello Di Montalcino 14.4% ABV, $75</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqBsPMuPLyTIUrDudnHBeb3aTM4Fx_ZOHg4WZbn7srq7LR0E8tK-385wrW8l8wS2wlnL8e2mXLqvOJavZFjMvuQ7As-QLv9hZvtEyGgY5Y75ez42ar_ZUGZxLrKPHS4EfcVLw8pUaQLY/s1600/Benvenuto+Brunello+2010+Vintage+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggqBsPMuPLyTIUrDudnHBeb3aTM4Fx_ZOHg4WZbn7srq7LR0E8tK-385wrW8l8wS2wlnL8e2mXLqvOJavZFjMvuQ7As-QLv9hZvtEyGgY5Y75ez42ar_ZUGZxLrKPHS4EfcVLw8pUaQLY/s1600/Benvenuto+Brunello+2010+Vintage+001.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Straight forward with pronounced fruit, on the nose and palate</span>, making up the primary component of its personality. The nose starts with some floral notes atop the solid black cherry, and woodsy brambles. There is a hint of caramel present there as well. The palate is full of tart black cherry and blackberry with some sandalwood and fine grained tannins. The mid-palate falls off a bit, but this is a relatively easy-drinking style that is ready to go now. 89 Pts<br />
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2010 <a href="http://www.ilpalazzone.com/">Il Palazzone</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 14.4% ABV $85</h4>
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The nose is firm, and a bit closed at the moment, but reveals more with coaxing. Pretty dried black cherry skins with a lovely floral layer, some charred Earth, and aromatic dried herbs all unfold with a little time. Later, some pie spice and tobacco evolve on the nose. The palate starts with fresh red cherry and blackberry flesh that are underscored by clean mineral Earth, turmeric, and more dried herbs. The structure is serious and finessed, with good acidity that blends into the fruit, and fine grained tannins underneath. Good length, and a elegant finish. Probably the most classic and best Brunello I've tasted from Il Palazzone. Outstanding. 95 Pts <br />
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2010 <a href="http://www.bottegaspa.com/en/articolo.php?id=1123" target="_blank">Bottega S.p.A. "Il Vino Dei Poetti"</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 14.5% ABV Not Yet Imported </h4>
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This wine offers the complete experience from start to finish. The nose shows dark black cherry that is tart, fresh and pure, followed by warm Earth, orange rind and dried herbs. The palate has a lovely light weight and soft texture, with more clean dark cherry, mouthwatering acidity, savory herbs, and a very fine grained grip. There are no week spots here, and the structure and balance bode well for a long life. 94Pts<br />
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2010 Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino 14% A.B.V. $50</h4>
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Rich blackberry fruit and a little sweet vanilla bean are notable on the nose, with some mineral notes as well. The palate has fresh blackberry, flinty Earth, and a dusty finish. Well balanced with a nice freshness. 90 Pts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrvalcnMQd796aV6wShU89duprxqaRz9z3PSK-K6gIZIEl48qQFEWpJ6sOXWBSkT_G_FIguLX3dffbikGiXqRn1ZvZjSR6mfcmDXJ2hmd7VaU1YRDs1D_PVjVyeBrFGVjCuo6ibqMsj00/s1600/Benvenuto+Brunello+2010+Vintage+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrvalcnMQd796aV6wShU89duprxqaRz9z3PSK-K6gIZIEl48qQFEWpJ6sOXWBSkT_G_FIguLX3dffbikGiXqRn1ZvZjSR6mfcmDXJ2hmd7VaU1YRDs1D_PVjVyeBrFGVjCuo6ibqMsj00/s1600/Benvenuto+Brunello+2010+Vintage+011.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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2010 <a href="http://www.coldilamo.com/">Col Di Lamo</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 14% A.B.V. $60</h4>
This was a very pleasant standout in the class of 2010 that showed great complexity and finesse. The elegant nose starts off with dried black cherry skins, with subtle black cherry flesh and cranberry at the core, underscored by mineral Earth, dried basil, and a faint dairy note.Quite fragrant. The palate has a nice medium weight with tangy black plum, other firm, dark, aromatic fruits, grilled beef, and more mineral Earth. The structure is solid, and well balanced, with fine grained tannins that coat the mouth on the finish. Complete and satisfying, with good length on the finish. 95 Pts<br />
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2010 <a href="http://www.brunelloferrero.it/en/" target="_blank">Ferrero</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 15% ABV, $65 </h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2gS9CkkhDAcoQ3k3KB7iLQMiAa1dPEZwtiGBCCDygbaAhpihUKsLPA0WdWdmA02DEiCklNcrxHB7JfZd2AWtaG5Lbfl16zS4JAGbodep99BiyC85_EyJ5ttxhzTkudLB_TVDV2bJMuM/s1600/Ferrero+Brunello+2010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA2gS9CkkhDAcoQ3k3KB7iLQMiAa1dPEZwtiGBCCDygbaAhpihUKsLPA0WdWdmA02DEiCklNcrxHB7JfZd2AWtaG5Lbfl16zS4JAGbodep99BiyC85_EyJ5ttxhzTkudLB_TVDV2bJMuM/s1600/Ferrero+Brunello+2010.jpg" /></a><span style="font-weight: normal;">Needed a few minutes to blow off at first, but opened up into a complex and solid wine with a distinct personality. The nose has notes of decomposed forest floor, charred meat, tobacco, lean blackberry, and dried black cherries, The palate shows full, firm fruit, with blackberry that is dark and serious. There are notes of anise, and aromatic wood with mineral Earth and dried cherry skins. Masculine, with big structural components and good balance, the development of this wine over time should be enjoyable. </span><span style="font-weight: normal;">93 Pts</span></h4>
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*Watch for updates to this post in the future as I add notes from other producers.</h4>
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Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-10613151193271199722015-05-31T05:39:00.000-07:002015-05-31T05:42:37.917-07:00Cortona Syrah - In The Right Place<br />
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<a href="http://tenimentidalessandro.it/tenimenti-d-alessandro/?lang=en" target="_blank">Tienimenti Luigi d'Alessandro</a></h4>
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Syrah is a wonderful grape that has found a home in many places around the globe, manifesting itself in a variety of styles as a result. One such place is Cortona, in Eastern Tuscany, where Syrah has been made into some particularly excellent wines. I spoke with Gaetano Soccoccio, Export Manager for Tienimenti Luigi d'Alessandro, and he enlightened me to a bit of history surrounding Syrah in the Cortona region. As it turns out, the d'Alessandro family pioneered the growing of Syrah in the region. Moving there from Rome in 1968, their goal was not to grow the grape that they wanted to grow, but rather to grow the grape that was best suited to the place.Over a five year period, they experimented with plantings of different varietals on various plots until they determined that Syrah was the best fit. Eventually other producers started growing Syrah as well, and in 1999 DOC status was granted to Cortona Syrah.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisC-O7lgN0nlXkZlGTMXtwE8SvvvaA_xGdhSk1ak5bTbzpHwXlndNwxwHjNDfDnlMKjW893HPllPCK29mnrx7SPE7YqrHvfp-9gl31FZn5Npl4N7PI6hWzcztuf3F64eZHPLtbBmLrvvE/s1600/Wine+Bow+Tasting+sept+10-11+2014+054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisC-O7lgN0nlXkZlGTMXtwE8SvvvaA_xGdhSk1ak5bTbzpHwXlndNwxwHjNDfDnlMKjW893HPllPCK29mnrx7SPE7YqrHvfp-9gl31FZn5Npl4N7PI6hWzcztuf3F64eZHPLtbBmLrvvE/s1600/Wine+Bow+Tasting+sept+10-11+2014+054.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaetano Saccoccio, Export Manger and Great Syrah Ambassador<br />
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I have to agree that the pairing of Cortona terrior and Syrah is a good one. I've tasted quite a number of them, from various producers, and they are generally quite enchanting. Here are my notes on examples from the d'Alessandro family.<br />
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2011 <a href="http://www.winebow.com/winery.php?id=1347=" target="_blank">Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro</a> Borgo Syrah, Cortona DOC 13% ABV, $19 </h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjM3uqporIXxnJxoMK-uEKCL6lY3gBRgT9BQ014LAXklA5UNJg6iM6WBzqXVfRs1OVjs26IimosrKksAFJH26cyvR1Q-4wPdwrb5ftecNGgL6Q_a8hhwAd5IymZEIhHSIkTNEsf-A3ZE/s1600/Wine+Bow+Tasting+sept+10-11+2014+050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkjM3uqporIXxnJxoMK-uEKCL6lY3gBRgT9BQ014LAXklA5UNJg6iM6WBzqXVfRs1OVjs26IimosrKksAFJH26cyvR1Q-4wPdwrb5ftecNGgL6Q_a8hhwAd5IymZEIhHSIkTNEsf-A3ZE/s1600/Wine+Bow+Tasting+sept+10-11+2014+050.jpg" width="240" /></a>Fresh blackberry and strawberry fruit, with a dark, dense heart, overlaid with dried violets, aromatic herbs, and coffee notes. The palate has chewy blackberry and raspberry, with char-grilled meats, some tobacco, espresso, and a little sweet vanilla. The balance is excellent with plenty of acidity to carry the density, and tannins that add a delicate grip. The finish is solid, with lingering tobacco notes to complete the experience. Alluring and satisfying. 90Pts</div>
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2009 <a href="http://www.winebow.com/winery.php?id=1347=" target="_blank">Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro</a> Il Bosco Cortona DOC 14% ABV, $48</h4>
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Deep, dark, black fruit. Blackberry, black current, and some blueberry, with notes of melba toast, aromatic smoke,and grilled meat. The palate has wonderful texture, aromatic roasted black cherry and blackberry skins, charred Earth, and sandalwood. Great structure and balance. The finish is long and vigorous with nice aromatics, lively tannins, solid acidity, and flinty Earth. Plenty of stuffing and balance to support longevity. 92 pts.</div>
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2009 <a href="http://www.winebow.com/winery.php?id=1347=" target="_blank">Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro</a> Migliara Syrah, Cortona DOC 14,5% ABV, $80</h4>
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Dried violets lay atop black cherry dust, and blackberry compote with a vein of savory aromas. The palate is serious and firm with fresh, lean, black cherry, baked strawberry, bitter chocolate, charred meats, and scorched sandalwood. The balance is excellent, with plenty of textured grip, juicy acidity, and animal character. The finish is long, solid, and aromatic. 92 Pts</div>
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Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-62628045991536378322015-04-24T18:05:00.001-07:002015-04-24T18:36:50.272-07:00Il Vino Dei Poeti 2010 Brunello<br />
This 2010 Brunello was a pleasant highlight of my Benvenuto Brunello experience this year.<br />
S.p.A. <a href="http://www.bottegaspa.com/en/" target="_blank">Bottega</a> has a large portfolio of wines and spirits, with a significant presence in the grappa market, but this Brunello struck me as more artisinal in character. It is not currently imported to the US, but that situation is likely to change soon, given the quality found in this bottle.<br />
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2010 <a href="http://www.bottegaspa.com/en/articolo.php?id=1123" target="_blank">Bottega S.p.A. "Il Vino Dei Poeti"</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 14.5% ABV </h4>
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Not Yet Imported to the US</h4>
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This wine offers a complete experience from start to finish. The nose shows dark black cherry that is dense, tart, fresh, and pure, followed by warm Earth, orange rind and dried herbs. The palate has a lovely elegant weight and soft texture, with more clean dark cherry, mouthwatering acidity, savory herbs, and a very fine grained grip. There are no weak spots here, and the structure and balance bode well for a long life. 94Pts<br />
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<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-2916727565606408962015-04-04T14:33:00.000-07:002015-04-04T16:39:43.790-07:00Producer Focus: Tenuta Brunelli<a href="http://www.tenutabrunelli.it/eng/home_en.html" target="_blank">Luca Brunelli</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigKP_eCZQdXfnxVWBYdTpHErn2Lqn2L_AU87DcuvLkhkRgkzbRD-Kij0Y9fpUIW1zsuimdyq3-Nw3Y7TxCXW8f2maNEgOKiGzEcQh8IJoHPyCfrH1EFvOB0RSeoOFG6ObNVejZtW0fsRQ/s1600/Brunelli_port_Lrg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigKP_eCZQdXfnxVWBYdTpHErn2Lqn2L_AU87DcuvLkhkRgkzbRD-Kij0Y9fpUIW1zsuimdyq3-Nw3Y7TxCXW8f2maNEgOKiGzEcQh8IJoHPyCfrH1EFvOB0RSeoOFG6ObNVejZtW0fsRQ/s1600/Brunelli_port_Lrg.jpg" style="cursor: move;" /></a>
Luca Brunelli is steeped in Montalcino wine making experience, and that experience is evident in the wine he and his family produces. I recently enjoyed a conversation, and several of his wines, with him and got to learn the background of this fine Brunello label.</h4>
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Luca chose to pursue farming at a relatively early age, after being inspired by <a href="http://www.agia.it/agia/?lang=en" target="_blank">AGIA</a>, Italy's Association of Young Agricultural Entrepreneurs.<br />
Eventually he became president of AGIA, and took the lead in supporting young agronomists across Italy. Recently, he literally outgrew that position, as he turned 40 years of age (he doesn't look it!), and is now president of CIA, a similar organization for technical and political support of small-scale agricultural concerns. <br />
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As I spoke with him about this, and about his wine making, I recalled why I so enjoy interacting with wine makers; they have a love of the work first and foremost, and their desire for financial success is a necessary second concern. Truly, in view of the disasters that nature can sometimes dish out, you would <i>have</i> to love the work of wine making in order to persevere and succeed. In this world where integrity, and quality of character is becoming so scarce, it's refreshing to find heartfelt people, like Luca, who put quality first.<br />
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Family - Roots</h4>
Luca seems to have a connection to most of the producers in Montalcino, one way or another, which is natural considering his lifetime of involvement with the wine making industry in Montalcino. His first pursuits were in the development of new vineyards at various estates around Montalcino. In this work, he interacted with numerous Brunello producers. Listening to him describe it, I got a clear impression of the family like unity among many in the Montalcino agricultural community.<br />
Gianni Brunelli is his uncle and is the namesake of the Gianni Brunelli winery, which produces excellent organic Brunello's. His parents, Mauro and Anna, are the owners of the Brunelli estate, which they founded, and then expanded in 1998. Today, Luca has taken a lead role in the winery, and is an ambassador of the label around the world.<br />
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<b>The Farm</b><br />
Located just south-west of the village of Montalcino, Tenuta Brunelli cultivates 5 hectares certified to Brunello production, and another 10 for Rosso, IGT, and oil production. The average elevation of the vineyards is 250 meters, with a general south-west facing disposition. These factors, combined with the efforts of the Brunelli wine making team, result in consistently excellent Brunello that is elegant and full of character.<br />
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Philosophy</h4>
Paolo Vaganini is the consulting oenologist for Brunelli, as he is for many of Montalcino's best producers, and he is highly regarded, even being called "Mr. Sangiovese" by some.Certainly, his influence is a big part of why Brunelli's wines are so solid. <br />
Low yields that are well below the maximum permitted by the DOCG laws, help promote concentration of energy and character in these wines, albeit at the sacrifice of quantity. Luca said this sacrifice must occur in order to produce wines of high quality.<br />
Brunelli has multiple vineyards, with varied dispositions, which help offset the impact of vintage variation. In hot vintages, the western facing slopes off-set the heat, in cooler vintages, the eastern facing slopes collect added heat to support ripening. In perfect vintages, there is an abundance of quality from all the vineyards.<br />
Regarding vineyards, Luca explained, "When I have a little money, I try to purchase more land for vineyards, but it has become very difficult to find good vineyard land that is available"<br />
I asked him if his wines were organic and he told me, "They are organic in practice, but not certified" and added, "I drink my wine", to emphasize his preference for grape growing that is free from unwanted chemicals.<br />
He will not produce a Riserva Brunello unless the vintage is
outstanding. One reason for this is to protect the quality of his normale bottling. Unless there is an abundance of perfect
grapes to support both, he will only make the normale. In 2010, the Riserva production totaled only 1,400 bottles, in 2007 it was 2,100, both minuscule quantities. The normale is typically around 10,000-15,000 bottles.<br />
In the cellar, a combination of large 80% Slovonian botti, and 20% French barrique, are used for the barrel aging, drawing from the qualities of each approach.<br />
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The net result of these elements is consistently solid Sangiovese character that is easy to appreciate. Elegance is a characteristic that comes through repeatedly, along with a style that balances old and new world style elements. Below are my notes on three examples.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGtooViLQ68iSgRz3ewrBCDDllA1QE3ZN-Hg9bVGw9s2vYXgw_Q0VelFzWz7WCHVS_-68wBeLBiNh3FOVm_1GjirJ3fUlgaRxgkjUsy2HBQjsp_pnMdGvnORH6cuxscpIA6Idp-R4BFQ/s1600/Luca+Brunelli+042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtGtooViLQ68iSgRz3ewrBCDDllA1QE3ZN-Hg9bVGw9s2vYXgw_Q0VelFzWz7WCHVS_-68wBeLBiNh3FOVm_1GjirJ3fUlgaRxgkjUsy2HBQjsp_pnMdGvnORH6cuxscpIA6Idp-R4BFQ/s1600/Luca+Brunelli+042.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luca Brunelli's Lovely Bottles, Luca in the Background</td></tr>
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2009 <a href="http://www.tenutabrunelli.it/eng/home_en.html" target="_blank">Tenuta Brunelli</a> Brunello Di Montalcino 14% ABV $60 </h4>
The nose is dark and firm, with black cherry skins, mineral Earth, and serious floral notes on top and a suggestion of spearmint. The palate is finessed, with great strength underneath, showing elegant red cherry, and raspberry, with Asian spice, and fine texture. Notes of charred Earth accent the structure, which is complete and balanced, albeit a bit disjointed at this young age. The finish has good length and a fine grained grip. There is a depth to this wine that draws you in to focus your attention. No riserva was made in 2009, so all of the Brunello grape production went into this wine, and it shows. Luca told me that the challenge in 2009 was deciding when to harvest. According to Luca Brunelli,the heat in the summer was substantial, and carried through into September. Harvesting too early in September had to be avoided; he harvested late in the month. 91 Pts<br />
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<h4>
2008 Tenuta Brunelli Brunello Di Montalcino 13% ABV $60</h4>
Clean and straightforward with red currant, raspberry, anise, dried herbs, and a sprinkle of fragrant incense. There's a pleasant lightness on the palate, elegant in style, with pomegranite, and lean red cherry, shale, and some brambles. It does fall off just a bit on the mid palate, but comes back nicely in the moderately long finish. Well balanced and finessed. 89 Pts<br />
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<h4>
2007 Tenuta Brunelli Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 14% ABV $100</h4>
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Lovely perfume, dried flowers, clean, red cherry flesh, and a bit of spiced strawberry make up the initial impression on the nose. Also present are notes of underbrush, and forest floor, lending a rustic undertone. The palate is elegant and light weight with lean red cherry, pomegranite, black tea, and dried herbs. Theres solid structure, despite the elegant style, with brisk acidity and firm tannins that are well balanced with the fruit profile. The finish is long, and aromatic. 91Pts</div>
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<h4>
2011 Tenuta Brunelli Rosso di Montalcino 13% ABV $20</h4>
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The finessed nose shows dried red cherry skins, sweet spice, flinty Earth, grilled meat, and some clay. The palate has a soft texture with subtle cardamom and nutmeg spice added to the firm red cherry, mineral Earth and mouthwatering acidity. Elegant and easy drinking with a judicious touch of grip and nice length on the finish. 89 Pts</div>
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Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-38721548114327787212015-03-20T18:21:00.000-07:002015-03-20T18:21:35.733-07:00Something New From Zenato - Alanera<br />
Zenato has been making wines in the Veneto since 1960; you may be familiar with their lovely Amarone and Valpolicella. Today they produce two million bottles a year from 70 hectares of vineyard land. Very recently they have added a new wine to there portfolio that fills I nice niche in their red wine line-up, Alanera. <br />
As you may know, Amarone is produced by the appassimento method, where all of the grapes for the wine are partially dried prior to being pressed. This results in great concentration, wonderful complexity, and special spectrum of characteristics.It also results in a premium price point, since the net result is much less juice then you would get if you did not dry the grapes first; it's a trade off.<br />
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With the Alanera, they have applied the appassimento process to just half of the grapes, drying them for 45-60 days. A further twist, that makes it special, is the addition of a small amount of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon to the traditional Valpolicella grapes in the blend. Finally it is aged for 12 months in French oak, and then 3 months in bottle. The end result is an individual wine that brings a little from the world of Amarone, without bringing the price tag with it. Here is my tasting note from a sample I recently received from their US distributor, Winebow.<br />
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<h4>
2012 <a href="http://www.zenato.it/en/" target="_blank">Zenato</a> "Alenara" Rosso Veronese IGT 13.5% ABV, $17</h4>
<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sBL69g0l9qUTbk-QV43v71lAkrX5al_muTra7dAURppQSMT3KwbyEo_qQ_3eZa_XtvxUttjzSJmhmiKV02XgXpDbMxNaQKBmjOD4bgE56CL5zz1gZG0XiFD_SgqYI8zqI-uWdf94CvY/s1600/20150124_162243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sBL69g0l9qUTbk-QV43v71lAkrX5al_muTra7dAURppQSMT3KwbyEo_qQ_3eZa_XtvxUttjzSJmhmiKV02XgXpDbMxNaQKBmjOD4bgE56CL5zz1gZG0XiFD_SgqYI8zqI-uWdf94CvY/s1600/20150124_162243.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a></i>Rich, spiced, dark plum is prominent on the nose with a solid layer of shale and mineral Earth underneath. Also present are black pepper, olive, aromatic dried herbs,espresso notes, and black cherry liquor. The palate shows ripe blackberry with lean edges, dark chocolate, and nice acidity balancing things out.There is a definite "yummy" factor in the overall impression, but it has the structure to keep it from getting boring. The finish is long and dusty with a subtle grip and lingering notes of espresso and tobacco. 55% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 10% Corvinone, 5% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. 90 PtsBrunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-76402240653509592362015-03-14T05:40:00.000-07:002015-03-14T05:40:37.317-07:002009 Castello di Bossi "Berardo" <h4>
2009 <a href="http://www.bacciwines.it/it-bossi" target="_blank">Bacci Castello di Bossi </a>"Berardo" Chianti Classico Riserva 14% ABV, $29</h4>
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The nose is just plain beautiful on the Berardo. There's a delicate blend of sweet, dried strawberries, layered over black cherry skins, with dried flowers, sandalwood, a little sweet vanilla bean, and some forest floor leaves underneath.The black cherry forms a nice ripe core around which the other components gather. The palate is firm, but easy due to great balance, with dried black cherry, aromatic blackberry, a hint of sweetness, more sandalwood, and a little black pepper. There are elements of austerity and ripeness here that interplay to create alluring complexity. A joy to consume now, and certainly built to develop in the cellar.. 93 Pts<br />
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Castello di Bossi is located in Castenuovo Berardenga, in the southern part of the Chianti Classico zone, due east of Siena.<br />
The Berardo is 100% Sangiovese, grown at 350m (1100 ft), with 20 days of maceratio, 24 months in barrique, and 12 additional months in bottle. <br />
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<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-16778997093759426462015-02-26T19:16:00.000-08:002015-02-26T19:16:45.944-08:001988 Monsanto "Nemo" Cabernet Sauvignon<h4>
<i>Cabernet Sauvignon with a Purely Tuscan Heart</i></h4>
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<b>1988 <a href="http://www.castellodimonsanto.it/en" target="_blank">Castello Di Monsanto</a> "Nemo" I.G.T. 13.5% ABV $40</b><br />
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Opened and immediately poured, the impression of maturity is distinct at first, with a little <br />
funky Earth, mushroom, and sweet tobacco, but then the evolution begins. This developed wonderfully in the glass, over the course of two hours, with an elegant nose showing fine red cherry and red cherry dust, sweet brown tobacco, dusty ground herbs, cardomom, savory, and other spices. The palate is weightless, textured, and finessed with more dried cherry, aromatic sandalwood, hints of carmel, anise, and a fine grained chewiness on the finish. Perfectly balanced, and fully integrated, the acidity is lively and supportive with fine sweet tannins underneath. Later, the spice continues on the nose, with dried flowers immerging and some charred Earth, as it continues to impress. Apparently at it's peak, with plenty of detail and energy. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 95 Pts<br />
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Castello Di Monsanto is one of the top producers of Chianti Classico, and always a reliable source for quality. Their Nemo comes from the Il Mulino vineyard from vines that are nearly 40 years old (today). After 18 months in barrique, it spends another year in bottle before release.Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-83390121111976965442015-01-31T13:53:00.003-08:002015-02-01T05:34:52.442-08:002012 San Guisto a Rentennano Chianti Classico<br />
<h4>
2012 <a href="http://www.fattoriasangiusto.it/eng/" target="_blank">San Guisto a Rentennano</a> Chianti Classico 14% ABV $29</h4>
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Open and demonstrative, the nose shows spiced dried red cherry, dried violets, a subtle savory undercurrent, mineral Earth, and a little cocoa powder. The palate is layered with aromatic dried cherry<br />
that is fresh and subtly sweet, pretty Asian spice, anise, a solid dark cherry core, charred rare <br />
beef on the mid-palate, a nice tart bite, and a big dusty grip. The moderately long finish is quite firm, <br />
but leaves the palate clean at the end. Forthright and satisfying. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. 91 Pts <br />
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San Guisto also makes Percarlo, an important 100% Sangiovses IGT wine. The estate is located in the southern part of the Chianti Classico zone, with vineyards at an average elevation of 270 meters. They are certified organic.Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-12808404848201377872015-01-23T03:54:00.000-08:002015-01-23T03:54:03.498-08:001994 Soldera Riserva Brunello Di Montalcino<h4>
A classic example of great wine making.</h4>
It is said that the best wine makers still make good wine in difficult vintages, they just make less of it. The 1994 Soldera is a classic example of that statement. I have tasted this wine at least eight times, and it has consistently shown as a truly great example of the qualities Brunello Di Montalcino can attain. 1994 was a less than stellar vintage, with a few challenges, but you can't tell that from this wine.<br />
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<h4>
1994 Soldera Case Basse Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 13% ABV $450</h4>
<h4>
Tasted November 2014 </h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">Opened and poured, the '94 is still going strong</span>. This bottle shows tart red cherry, cardamom, coffee, and a little orange rind on the nose.The palate has a plush texture that is typical of Soldera, with blended Asian spice, red cherry, penetrating acidity, a little brown sugar, and super-fine tannins. It stands up well over the course of the meal, and develops notes of tobacco leaf, and charred Earth near the end of the bottle. Elegant and nuanced, but still powerful at is core. 94 Pts<br />
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<h4>
Tasted May 2009</h4>
Popped and poured. More floral / perfume than previous bottles. Still
complex but the fruit is, unfortunately, fading. Even as this star burns
out, it produces new colors. Or maybe it just this bottle. We'll see.<br />
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<h4>
Tasted June 2008</h4>
Garnet red with a hint of brown. Sour cherries at first, quickly blew
off to a nice tartness, which also mellowed after twenty minutes.
Incense, warm spices, mushroom, young cherries. Almost fully integrated
tannins. This, once again, plays like a middle aged burgundy. Great
complexity of nose and palate. Wonderful development in the glass such
that the last sip is a regret. Seemed like it was fading, but then came
back strong over the course of 2 hours. Opened 1 hour beforehand and
sampled. Not decanted. <br />
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<h4>
Tasted November 2007</h4>
Pretty, light ruby red with lovely clarity. All characteristics are
elegant and subtle. Nose of bright cherry, fine shale and roses and a
hint of charcoal grill. On the palette clean medium body with cherry,
bramble, leather, anise, carmel and asian spice. Seamless. Great balance
of sweet acid, fruit and fine tannins. Incredibly long finish. Once
again, a fine Burgundy like Brunello.<br />
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One unfortunate element of the Soldera story is the financial impact of
the 2012 vandalism attack the resulted in the loss of nearly all wine in
barrel from recent vintages. Market prices have soared since that
event. This particular bottle could be found for under $150 before the
attack; today I see it priced between $425 and $625, making it virtually
unattainable for many lovers of Brunello. Given the very limited quantities of the 2007 thru 2012 vintages that remained after the barrels were drained, the prices won't be going down any time soon. Still, if you can, you should taste Soldera to experience the glory that Sangiovese can achieve at the hand of Gianfranco Soldera.<br />
<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-88549316636396038192015-01-04T08:41:00.000-08:002015-01-04T08:41:06.175-08:001993 Biondi Santi Riserva<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
1993 Biondi Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva 13% ABV $400?</h4>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdiUzWNr8kMdxi5iN2tuWXi0bNz9B6kYffZI_zKGlcFm6RIGI9f9cg-F7blAquvl22Ej4NKAC8g5b6mnSKxAnGi7i0JTAeGaUfKkBqOOcHziq1xHoosjUIzSWw2Y-dUrE1FSXmTBvE9Q/s1600/20141205_101147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOdiUzWNr8kMdxi5iN2tuWXi0bNz9B6kYffZI_zKGlcFm6RIGI9f9cg-F7blAquvl22Ej4NKAC8g5b6mnSKxAnGi7i0JTAeGaUfKkBqOOcHziq1xHoosjUIzSWw2Y-dUrE1FSXmTBvE9Q/s1600/20141205_101147.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a>From the producer that "invented" Brunello Di Montalcino, this is typical of the Biondi Santi style, built firstly for aging, and it does so at a glacial pace. Over 15 years after its release, it still takes focused attention, and time in the glass, to recognize the greatness here, but be assured it is great.Cologne, spice, and incense lightly coat the finessed nose that opened very slowly over time in the glass with mushroom, anise, and Earth showing later. The palate is dark and firm with black cherry skins, flint, charred Earth, and violets.The acidity and tannins are in harmony and balance perfectly with the fruit. Nothing is missing, and there's no indication of decline. Rather, it is clear that this wine is still opening, and developing in the bottle.<br />
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This is a style that has rare opportunity to be appreciated these days, as it is built to be consumed with many years of aging under its belt. That is something that few consumers are inclined to or able to do, especially since much of the wine loving population has been "raised" on wines designed to please immediately, and in a big, straight forward ways. If you want to enjoy Biondi Santi's Riserva Brunello's, be prepared to wait.<br />
<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-56212608792502168392014-12-29T17:41:00.000-08:002014-12-31T07:17:06.585-08:002004 Poggio Di Sotto<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
2004 Poggio Di Sotto Brunello Di Montalcino 14% ABV $240</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEina-TtDb6oCnn0QrrphBPHZq3H-CajZv4HTGga2TsjhjbZABLGEmpLElAMDX4TmFxepqY034iOl0P3Y5AF_jc1evOi5AIY2hXdwPv7nurubRrbY2VtGO__P7kiqhHrrf80cZ29ylV1r68/s1600/20141214_210320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEina-TtDb6oCnn0QrrphBPHZq3H-CajZv4HTGga2TsjhjbZABLGEmpLElAMDX4TmFxepqY034iOl0P3Y5AF_jc1evOi5AIY2hXdwPv7nurubRrbY2VtGO__P7kiqhHrrf80cZ29ylV1r68/s1600/20141214_210320.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a>The wines of Piero Palmucci are consistently outstanding, and this one is no exception. The nose starts off with roasted red cherry, mulling spices, and brown sugar overlaid with sweet tobacco leaf and sandalwood. It is very giving on the nose, but still quite finessed.The palate is full of textured red cherry, and Asian spice, with a gentle chewiness and a weightless feel on the palate. The fruit is pure and delicious, as the acidity and tannins complement but don't overshadow. This is a wine that disappears quickly; as it drinks effortlessly due to near perfect balance, and finesse.<br />
Later the nose shows some forest floor, and more tobacco, but holds the amplitude of its components right to the end of the bottle.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5EDZQSpvk9ouq5NpbNeb5M69VZ9iddKV3p-XmegRsHhOL21qEYSuPa3GxljCi1ZJ3_Vo9xTYyL7fmhq-Gj-RH35z0C44fseX1aBdm24rraLS6yBwyh-SS81iCL1sc6QsAn_UsBJlAmeo/s1600/20141214_210336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5EDZQSpvk9ouq5NpbNeb5M69VZ9iddKV3p-XmegRsHhOL21qEYSuPa3GxljCi1ZJ3_Vo9xTYyL7fmhq-Gj-RH35z0C44fseX1aBdm24rraLS6yBwyh-SS81iCL1sc6QsAn_UsBJlAmeo/s1600/20141214_210336.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a>The 2004 was made by Piero Palmucci, but this winery has changed hands, being owned by <a href="http://www.collemassari.it/en/" target="_blank">Collemassari</a> for the last few years, and their full impact remains to be seen. One immediate impact was an increase in the price of Poggio Di Sotto Brunellos. This bottle was $90-$100 when I purchased it, three years ago; today it goes for $250 from the same source. 94 Pts<br />
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<a href="http://brunellobob.blogspot.com/2013/02/tasting-poggio-di-sotto-brunello-di.html" target="_blank">Read more on Poggio Di Sotto here.</a>Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3212635972387594722.post-11061357440555404172014-11-23T15:40:00.000-08:002014-11-23T15:40:38.799-08:00Sagrantino Di Montefalco<h4>
A Big Beautiful Red for Those Crisp Autumn Nights</h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Montefalco and Its Beautiful Surroundings</td></tr>
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Located about 2 hours south of Siena, in Umbria, <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/place/06036+Montefalco+PG,+Italy/@42.8901369,12.6473787,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x132e8e496bcc02ad:0x2419856ffa85767e" target="_blank">Montefalco</a> is the namesake village of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denominazione_di_origine_controllata" target="_blank">DOCG</a> dedicated to a unique, and excellent, Italian veriatal. The Sagrantino Di Montefalco DOCG was awarded in 1992, establishing a set of rules intended to preserve and promote the quality of wines made from Sagrantino.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Montefalco</td></tr>
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<a href="http://www.consorziomontefalco.it/en/" target="_blank">The Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco</a> requires that only Sagrantino grapes be used, and that thirty months of aging occur before the wine is released. The aging must be for a minimum of twelve months in oak barrels, and at least four months in bottle before release.<br />
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Sagrantino is its own grape, not resembling any other, and is only found in the Montefalco region, thus making it rather special and worth investigating.<br />
The thick skins of this red varietal are the main contributor to the longevity of these wines, which are able to age for years, and develop further complexity.<br />
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After tasting through a number of samples, a few consistent characteristics became apparent. These wines are quite solid, and well structured.They have good acidity, and deep, dark fruit profiles, that work in conjunction with the consistently present tannins, thus resulting in balance.The thick skins that fuel this structure, also provide aromatic notes that lay on top of many example, and add complexity. <br />
All of these qualities make Sagrantino from Montefalco an excellent choice for cooler nights, and hearty winter foods. Below are three fine examples, from the more than fifty producers of this wine that you should get to know.<br />
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2008 <a href="http://www.arnaldocaprai.it/pagine/montefalco-sagrantino-docg-collepiano" target="_blank">Arnaldo-Caprai "Collepiano"</a> Sagrantini Di Montefalco DOCG 14.5%ABV , $50</h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1r8Y4O88Rey6AijVnLiJyMP0Og6WJevbM3pIgpN6-dmB7RAQqLcdqeDyalpoj6UKeUWQBaX3eyeyrGRP-xhZf7JW0ue4BPBgQ9cLsHFmUkbndOgwx9-p-IILGvtt1ojYjcFzofXOQdc/s1600/Sagrantino+Di+Montefalco+Samples+001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt1r8Y4O88Rey6AijVnLiJyMP0Og6WJevbM3pIgpN6-dmB7RAQqLcdqeDyalpoj6UKeUWQBaX3eyeyrGRP-xhZf7JW0ue4BPBgQ9cLsHFmUkbndOgwx9-p-IILGvtt1ojYjcFzofXOQdc/s1600/Sagrantino+Di+Montefalco+Samples+001.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Dark black cherry and dusty mineral Earth on the nose, with subtle vanilla bean and aromatic blackberry. The palate is quite chewy with dried, blackberry notes, black cherry skins, char-grilled meat and violet incense. There's a pleasant bitterness on the finish, and a little bite. Big and burly, but it seems to have what it needs to come together into something more after a few years in the cellar. 89Pts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWuY1VPWLbQfCgFoJD-cML2KAo4zgv2hgqbgtdEVp82tFWJvQ11WUbVFox3uZIz9DDEPmLvZOyW6MxhXcEaclu42KjH0rh50BI5lbaQxVzbTz906pZKvBkddhEuc6Uxd2vxRHFHnGLwUY/s1600/Sagrantino+Di+Montefalco+Samples+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWuY1VPWLbQfCgFoJD-cML2KAo4zgv2hgqbgtdEVp82tFWJvQ11WUbVFox3uZIz9DDEPmLvZOyW6MxhXcEaclu42KjH0rh50BI5lbaQxVzbTz906pZKvBkddhEuc6Uxd2vxRHFHnGLwUY/s1600/Sagrantino+Di+Montefalco+Samples+005.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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2008 <a href="http://www.scacciadiavoli.it/homeENG.asp" target="_blank">Scacciadiavoli</a> Sagrantino Di Montefalco DOCG 15% ABV $39</h4>
Popped and poured, dark ruby in color. The nose is a bit reserved, with the dense, dried, black cherry fruit that is solid, but not round, with faint vanilla, and a hint of cocoa dust. There are also notes of dusty underbrush supporting. The palate is well structured and perfumed with blackberry, black cherry, a pleasant bitterness, a hint of forest floor and a tart juicy finish. Firm, dusty, tannins a present throughout, and drive the character of this wine. Although a bit awkward at this stage, there is a general character of firmness, density, and masculinity. 89Pts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPegNSJtGaD4u1MmW_Q2Gk4RUvxPY8v5yW5LSkJHa3pHfW-vFqUyMEdF5e29DixpINLf0e30IU_-6Wf3fuC0mafsUYCK67VpAoWySBjhv11heMSRNE9oC-pctnbT1sX5-HIc7oMTl9yeo/s1600/Sagrantino+Di+Montefalco+Samples+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPegNSJtGaD4u1MmW_Q2Gk4RUvxPY8v5yW5LSkJHa3pHfW-vFqUyMEdF5e29DixpINLf0e30IU_-6Wf3fuC0mafsUYCK67VpAoWySBjhv11heMSRNE9oC-pctnbT1sX5-HIc7oMTl9yeo/s1600/Sagrantino+Di+Montefalco+Samples+007.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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2009 <a href="http://www.perticaia.it/eng/farm.php" target="_blank">Perticaia</a> Sagrantino Di Montefalco DOCG 14.5% ABV $44</h4>
The nose is finessed and lovely showing pretty blackberry scents with underlying cedar, subtle Asian spice, and dried flowers. The fruit is pure and fresh in nature; very appealing.The palate starts off with a soft attack, aromatic black cherry, a little menthol and savory notes trailing. The balance is very good with chewy tannins, easy acidity and depth of fruit. Lean, dark, a little savory, and easy to drink, with fine tannins and a little bite on the finish. A complete pleasure.91Pts.<br />
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<br />Brunello Bobhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05266962048163286394noreply@blogger.com0