Baricci - Family Tradition on the Montosoli Hill

With over 200 producers to choose from, lovers of Brunello are tasked to find the qualities that distinguish particular producers from the crowd. When I visited with the family team, at the tiny Baricci winery, I saw just such qualities and was impressed by their integrity toward the wines they produce.

Sangiovese Vines of Baricci, Ready for the Harvest

I spoke with Pietro Buffi and his two sons, Federico and Francesco, and saw their strong desire to uphold a personal high standard, regardless of how other wineries may operate. They told me how 95 year old Nello Baricci, founded the winery and established that high standard. They also described how he still checked in, every day, on the various tasks of the business. Sadly, since my visit, Nello has passed away, after a long, distinguished role in the Brunello community. He was highly regarded, and a founding member of the Brunello Consorzio. He will certainly be missed.
In addition to their high standards, the wines of Baricci benefit from a prestigious location, the Montosoli hill. All of their vineyards are located in this famous sub-zone, on the north side of Montalcino. Regarded as one of the best vineyard locations in the the DOCG, Montosoli is occupied by just a small handful of Brunello producers. Interestingly, most of those producers make only riserva or premium single vineyard wines from this location, which is a testament to the quality of the place. In contrast, Baricci only makes a riserva in the best vintages, and even makes a Rosso Di Montalcino from their Montosoli vines.
      Another practice that distinguishes Baricci from others is their meticulous, manual processes in the vineyard; everything is done by hand. For example, the leaves of each vine are trimmed to increase sun contact on cooler exposures, or to block sunlight on the hottest southern exposures. Theirs is truly a handcrafted product and that effort is apparent in the bottle.

A Commemoration of the founders of the Consorzio

2007 Baricci Colombaio Brunello Di Montalcino $45, 14% ABV

Here is a wine with strength and finesse, in the classic style. On the nose there is solid black cherry skins, with charred brambles, subtle incense, and a distinct beam of sweet spice. There's great balance on the palate, with dark fruits, good acidity, and medium grained tannins. The finish is quite long, with more fine spice, some tobacco, and more brambles. Still needs time to integrate, but beautiful now. Complete and complex. This fine, traditional Brunello is produced in the limited quantity of only 12,000 bottles. 91 Pts.

2011 Baricci Colombaio Brunello Di Montalcino $45, 14% ABV

The nose is marked by solid fruit with dark notes of ripe black and red cherry, with warm spice notes underscored by fragrant, charred incense. This is a wine with a firm, dark heart.The palate has spiced black cherry skins with fresh acidity and a firm grip. Leather and tobacco notes add further detail. Solid and satisfying with a long finish. 90 Pts

2014 Baricci Colombaio Montosoli, Rosso Di Montalcino $20, 13.5% ABV

Overall finessed nose, with dark, charred Earth, grilled meats, and faint incense.The palate is elegant and aromatic with dried red cherry and sweet herbs. Lean and bright with plenty of acidity and fine tannins on the finish. I believe this is the only Rosso Di Montalcino produced from Montosoli. 89 Pts

1985 Barbi Brunello - Wonderful Tradition

 This wine was very impressive at a recent dinner with friends, showing very well beside other solid Tuscans. Fattoria dei Barbi is a very traditional producer and their methods paid off well in the vintage, which was an outstanding one in Montalcino. The Barbi estate, located about 3 km southeast of Montalcino, has been producing wine for more than 200 years. While many producers have joined in the production of Brunello in the past 30 years, this particular wine has been made for over 100 and the experience shows.

1985 Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino 13% ABV (Recent Vintages around $45)

Decanted and poured within 30 minutes. The wonderful scent of fragrant, dried herbs wafts out from the glass immediately, followed by warm underbrush, and subtle smoke. Dried red cherry, perfumed wood and rose petals are also present in the complex and alluring nose. On the palate there is fresh acidity, pure flavors of dried red cherry, distinct coffee notes and a bit of forest floor. The tannins are fully integrated leaving a clean finish. Still fresh and pretty, with excellent balance, and the stamina to last for 2 hours in the decanter without fading. A thorough pleasure. 95 Pts.